Maternal Love: the inspiration for the third edition of chiles en nogada at Carmela & Sal, Chef Gaby Ruiz’s restaurant
By Eugenia Revoreda
Chef Gaby Ruiz ‘s Carmela & Sal restaurant presents its third edition of Chiles en nogada —one of the emblematic dishes of the gastronomy of Puebla and Mexico—, inspired by maternal love and whose pairing can be made with wines from the high-end house Château D’Esclans by Moët Hennessy.
Her gaze reflects it deeply: the emotion with which chef Gaby Ruiz Lugo formally presented the third season of Chiles en Nogada at Carmela & Sal , has a very powerful reason for being, and that is that she announced that she is pregnant and before this event “everything in her life has turned pink”.
The tasting menu: the perfect combination of ingredients, flavors and seasons
Green oil with peas and green beans Pairing: rosé wine ‘Whispering Angel’
The herbal and very fresh flavors stood out in the first part of the menu that chef Gaby Ruiz prepared to accompany the dish of this third edition of the Chiles en nogada from Carmela & Sal .
The flavor of the fresh and seasonal peas, in conjunction with the green oil and the green beans, mixed to give way to a bed of crunchy, unctuous, light and very fresh textures that combined in harmony with the dry and soft taste profile of the rosé wine and notes on the nose of red fruits and flowers, the Whispering Angel rosé wine from the the Côtes de Provence region, in France.
Rosé is an all year round wine, but everyone knows that rosés become more irresistible in summer. So, glasses at the ready for this year’s seasonal round-up of new wines and new vintages.
To repeat a few things I said last year: rosés aren’t only for the aperitif or poolside slots. They often make very good food wines, not least with the sort of dishes you might be having in warm weather – grilled and barbecued fish, seafood, charcuterie, salads, vegetable tarts, chicken dishes, pasta and picnic fare.
All wines need to be kept out of sunlight to avoid spoilage by light strike (does what it says on the tin) but rosés are often more vulnerable, above all when they’re in clear glass bottles. Ideally, we’d have dark, opaque wine glasses, but that’s a step too far.
Pink wines should be served chilled and then kept cold while you make further inroads into the bottle, box or pouch. Wine cooler sleeves kept in the freezer or ice box are invaluable for bottles. Chilling your glass by swirling a couple of ice cubes round it before you start is another good move when the sun is beating down. If your wine does end up too warm, you can always resort to an ice cube lobbed into the liquid itself.
This year I’m kicking off my recommendations with three wines in sustainable packaging. These are all the more relevant and praiseworthy in the context of rosé when so many, especially from Provence, come in absurdly heavy glass bottles.
I’ve given empty bottle weights at the end of each tasting note when I have them – and I can tell you there are some shockers. I’m sorry to say that three of my top-scoring wines are the worst offenders by a long way. If Chanel (yes, that Chanel) can put its Domaine de L’Ile rosé, my other top scoring wine, in a bottle weighing only 409g, others could too. When will they wake up to the harm they’re doing?
After the sustainably packaged trio, the order is in ascending order of price. Two Tavel rosés I really wanted to recommend, Domaine Maby La Forcadière (Yapp Brothers) and Arbousset rosé (Tesco), have fallen by the wayside because they have moved on to 2022 from the 2021 vintage I tasted. I’m sure the new vintages will be worth a try. There’s also a lack of English rosés (my fault).
A score of 93 is equivalent to a gold medal; 89–92 is silver; 85–88 is bronze.
Whispering Angel 2022, Côtes de Provence, France
This was very tight-lipped when I tasted it at the beginning of the year, but has now relaxed into flowing, floral, red fruit and vanilla-patisserie aromas and apricot and red apple on the palate. Lemon, elegantly bitter grapefruit rind and salinity provide and structure and freshness. Another impressive, appealing Whispering Angel. 13%. 596g.
91
Widely available at £15.95–£19.99. Half bottles and magnums available from Majestic and Waitrose
Château d’Esclans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
Scented summer-garden nose with an inviting hint of juniper berry. Rich, pure fruit on the palate with discreet, toasted vanilla and oak, a silky texture and fine acidity. Elegantly shaped and well-balanced. Primarily Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) vinified in a combination of 600-litre oak barrels and stainless steel. 13.5%. 978g – ouch!
Château d’Esclans Les Clans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
Mainly free-run juice from 50-plus year old Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino) and Syrah, fermented and aged for 10 months, with bâtonnage, in 600-litre oak barrels (one and two year old). The oak is still quite pronounced on both nose and palate, but not so that it overwhelms the floral, apricot and raspberry fruit, the creamy, close-textured richness, citrus sweetness and core of acidity. It will be better in a year, but is already a serious fine wine when given time to breathe in the glass. A good match for lobster and rich seafood dishes, vitello tonnato and pork ragù with capers. 14%. 975g –ouch again!
Château d’Esclans Garrus 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
I tasted this at 8ºC and 12ºC and then drank it at 12º+C. By all means serve it cooler if you like, but the higher temperature allows this young, tightly wound, oak-fermented and matured rosé to uncoil and express itself. And you’ll want to let it do that because it’s an exceptional wine: reminiscent of white Burgundy in its hazelnut and mineral aromas, buttery taste and silky texture, but with added orange pomander, exotic spice and incense. It’s intense, complex, powerful and balanced with an impeccable interplay of fruit, acidity and oak. Designed to go with food – lobster, salmon, pork, veal, lamb chops, savoury dishes in cream sauce and so on. Drink from now to 2033, if stored in cellar conditions. 14.5%. 979g – and ouch yet again!
Whispering Angel, the Côtes-de-Provence French rosé wine, invites you to toast the arrival of summer at Tigerlily, Edinburgh with a takeover that delivers serious World of Whisper wows.
Whispering Angel, the Côtes-de-Provence French rosé wine responsible for igniting the Rosé Renaissance worldwide, invites you to toast the arrival of summer at Tigerlily, Edinburgh with a takeover that delivers serious World of Whisper wows.
Synonymous with the most captivating alfresco destinations across the globe, the wildly popular rosé wine has launched its Whispering Angel summer takeover, located in the heart of the capital’s stylish George Street, and in place until the end of August.
Created by Chateau d’Esclans, a magical property and one of the grandest Chateaus in all of Provence, Whispering Angel is inviting rosé lovers to experience the Tigerlily takeover. These experiences include a hot-ticket five-course Chateau d’Esclans Pairing Dinner on Thursday the 3rd of August hosted by Kelly Stevenson – Chateau d’Esclans Brand Ambassador, priced at £75.
For the first time in Scotland, Whispering Angel fans have the opportunity to enjoy a delicious Chateau d’Esclans wine flight at Tigerlily for £25 featuring three 125ml rosés from the renowned vineyard:
• The Pale by Whispering Angel (expressive with great aromatic freshness and a fruit forward palate). • Whispering Angel (fresh red berry fruit characteristics with a floral nose, a dry and smooth wine). • Rock Angel (a more complex and structured taste profile than Whispering Angel, giving rosé lovers a bigger and richer wine. Floral and spicy notes with a creamy, rich finish).
Oozing a glamorous, playful spirit reminiscent of Saint-Tropez, the Whispering Angel takeover sees Tigerlily’s outdoor terrace on George Street transformed into a picture-perfect summer scene. Set within a white picket fence and accessed through arches dressed with wild, natural roses, the terrace is dressed with trailing ivy, fresh hydrangeas and oh-so-Provence lavender. Day into night, the Whispering Angel terrace at Tigerlily will be Edinburgh’s hottest destination this summer…and an incomparable spot for people watching in the sunshine.
Elsewhere, a burst of beautiful pink floral and lush greenery greets guests as they ascend the steps into Tigerlily, with the entrance transformed into the world of Whispering Angel. Taking centre stage inside the entrance is a Whispering Angel swing seat, with luxe velvet cushions and silky tassels; a playful spot for a spontaneous selfie opportunity.
Bringing the outdoors in further, the Whispering Angel takeover sees Tigerlily’s green room dramatically reimagined into a summer rose garden, with rose bushes flowing wilding across oversized curved mirrors, greenery and stems dramatically suspended and draped, and shimmering lights offsetting the installation to stunning effect.
To celebrate the launch of the takeover, Tigerlily is offering two further decadent experiences in addition to the Chateau d’Esclans wine flight and the Whispering Angel dinner. They are:
Whispering Angel Afternoon Tea with a 175ml glass of Whispering Angel, at £30.95 per person and Whispering Angel Brunch with a half bottle of Whispering Angel at £49.95 per person.
The world of whisper awaits at Tigerlily. Join us.
At Breezy Four Seasons Affair, CityBook Goes Poolside with ‘Coolest’ People in Houston
City Book Editors
Ryan Barbles, Casey Barbles, Kate McCarthy, Sasha Grumman (photo by Sarah De La Rosa)
A FABULOUSLY DIVERSE and accomplished crowd of influencers, VIPs, culture vultures and society swells gathered on the pool deck of Four Seasons Hotel Houston to celebrate Houston CityBook’s first ever “Cool 100” list.
Sponsors and cohosts included The Post Collection, which brought a two-toned orange and black Bentley to show off at valet as guests arrived, and Insólito Tequila, which provided spirits for the breezy summer evening’s featured Paloma cocktails. Château d’Esclans poured delicious rosés, including its Whispering Angel and The Beach.
Flirty Fashion & Fabulous Cosmetics: Kittenish By Jessie James Decker Shines At PARAISO Miami Swim Week
By Brooke Klaiman
Photo Credit: Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Kittenish
When you feel confident and beautiful on the outside, it helps your inner beauty shine through. Kittenish, founded in 2014 by the multi-talented Jessie James Decker, approaches fashion with a focus on blending flirty femininity with a hint of sass. But it’s more than just appearance – Kittenish represents a contagious mindset you can’t help but embrace.
This year at PARAISO Miami Swim Week, guests had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the essence of Kittenish and embody its spirit with style and grace. The show drew inspiration from Decker’s love for European aesthetics combined with her identity as a southern babe, resulting in her best swim collection to date. The collection showcased romantic shades of red, vibrant greens, and a mix of warm neutrals, with added hints of Mediterranean prints, animal-inspired prints, and textured fabrics, all infused with that flirty Kittenish touch.
The success of the evening was made possible by the support of sponsor partners such as Zooz Group, Virgin Voyages, and AminoLean Energy Drink, whose contributions promoted and enhanced one of Swim Fashion Week’s most highly anticipated events. The excitement carried over to the exclusive after-party held at The Miami Edition hotel’s Tropicale, where guests indulged in specialty drinks courtesy of Blue Ice Vodka, Mijenta Tequila, and Whispering Angel Rosé wine. It was an evening filled with fun, flirtation, and vibrant energy.
Having a sustainable focus is as important for big winemakers as it is for the family-run operations as climate change continues to have an impact on vineyards. Whispering Angel, the brand that helped drive the rosé renaissance’, celebrates its 17th vintage, but 2022 was a challenging year as the growing season yielded small berries with an average weight drop of 25%. This was expected, following a scorching summer. However, because of their commitment to long-term, meticulous vineyard management, it was an untroubled vintage. This can be experienced in the glass, as refreshing strawberry, raspberry and grapefruit flavours make a delicate rosé which has a beautiful crisp, clean finish…
Whispering Angel Rose Garden returns to popular Dublin location this summer
The fun addition is taking over the venue once again for the summer season.
By Rachel Butler
Cafe En Seine Dawson Street
Whispering Angel Rose Garden is returning to Cafe En Seine this summer with delicious food to be enjoyed along side Whispering Angel Rose or with its stylish big sister Rock Angel. The takeover at one of Dublin’s most chic venues will be running from July 6 to end of August. Customers can also indulge in a delicious food pairing menu, created by Cafe en Seine’s Executive Chef Stephen Gibson. Whispering Angel is the perfect summer drink with delicate aromas of fresh citrus, rose petal, and red fruits making it the perfect choice for rose lovers. There is also the Whispering Angel Blush cocktail, fashioned with vodka, rhubarb, Whispering Angel Rosé and soda on offer to kick start a perfect summers evening. The Whispering Angel Rose Garden will transport you to a Parisian terrace offering the perfect picture opportunity and give you that holiday feeling in the heart of Dublin city. The light flooded space will have open windows to let the sun and summer air in.
The Whispering Angel Blush cocktail is priced at €14.50, with Whispering Angel by the glass costing €12 and a bottle costing €57. There is also a Whispering Angel 750 ml bottle available for €85 and a Whispering Angel 1.5l bottle for €125.
Summer has arrived at The Ivy in Manchester with June specials and a special spritz menu
As the days get longer and the weather gets warmer, the essence of summer comes alive at this popular Spinningfields venue.
By Deanna Thomas
The Ivy Summer Terrace 2023
The Ivy’s expert mixologists have created a delightful summer spritz menu in collaboration with Aperol and Campari. The drinks list showcases timeless favourites such as Aperol Spritz as well as limited-edition specials like the Passionfruit Spritz. If you prefer a chilled glass of wine with added table-side theatre, treat yourselves to a glass of Whispering Angel Rose poured tableside from a Jeroboam.
Chardonnay, Rosé, local or Sparkling: summer is coming!
(Agen Food) – Rome, 21 June. – Since ancient times, the summer solstice – the day with the most light throughout the year – symbolizes change, vitality and greater contact with nature. And how could it be otherwise? The warmer evenings invite us to be outdoors and in the air there is that special feeling that anything is possible. Whether it’s during an aperitif by the sea, in front of a table set on the terrace, on a linen tablecloth with a wicker basket next to it, every occasion becomes a good one to celebrate the new beginnings that await us with a toast. Fresh, delicate and playful, wines for the summer are perfect partners to accompany the moments of conviviality that the summer has just begun. And if white still remains the first choice when it comes to summer labels, Rosé and Bubbles stand out for their gastronomic versatility.
WHISPERING ANGEL Château d’Esclans, a domaine whose property covers 427 hectares (of which 140 are planted with vines) in the commune of La-Motte-En-Provence, in the heart of the Varo department (where most of the wines that refer to the denomination Rosé de Provence AOC), is known for its ancient vineyards of Grenache, the main variety of the area and the most present among the rows of Château d’Esclans, together with Rolle (our Vermentino), Cinsault, Syrah. Whispering Angel, the symbolic wine of Château d’Esclans and a reference point for Provençal wines, comes from the best first-drop juices and the best musts of Grenache, Cinsault and Vermentino from the best terroirs around La-Motte-En-Provence . It is a Rosé of great aromatic intensity, characterized by notes of fresh red fruits and a floral bouquet. On the palate it is dry and fleshy, with a soft and round finish. Perfect to sip on its own, to better discover its characteristics, it also accompanies a leafy green salad with goat cheese and grilled pears.
The Trafalgar St. James launches Whispering Angel rooftop terrace
PUT A PROVENÇAL SPIN ON SUMMER IN LONDON WITH THE LUXURY HOTEL’S LATEST COLLABORATION
How are you spending your summer? While we can all dream of months lazily spent strolling pretty coastal paths and lingering over long, sun-dappled lunches next to the Mediterranean, the reality is many of us will be staying right here in the capital – which is why The Rooftop at The Trafalgar St. James is bringing a slice of Southern France to our doorstep this summer.
The luxury hotel has teamed up with Provence winery Château d’Esclans, maker of the famed Whispering Angel rosé, to create the Whispering Angel @ The Rooftop terrace. Taking over the seventh-floor restaurant and bar, which boasts incredible views over the central London skyline, the al fresco terrace will offer a unique menu of Provençal cocktails, drinks and dishes against a backdrop of seasonal floral decor.
The star of the show is the special Provence rosé wine menu, which features some of Château d’Esclans best-loved bottles, including the delicate Whispering Angel and high-energy Rock Angel. Accompanying this will be a series of limited edition rosé-based cocktails, such as Taste of Provence: an elegant blend of Whispering Angel, homemade lavender syrup and a touch of soda.
And should mid-shopping drinks or sunset cocktails turn into a long lunch or decadent dinner? Whispering Angel @ The Rooftop is happy to provide. The Trafalgar’s team of world-class chefs has devised a menu of light summery dishes and indulgent classics perfect for every occasion. Choose from a delectable offering including crispy prawns with lime and vegan nduja, halloumi fries with pomegranate and mint, and grilled seabass with salsa verde and burnt lemon.
From 10 June, Whispering Angel @ The Rooftop will also be serving a lively weekend brunch perfect for special celebrations and making the most of the (hopefully) glorious summer sunshine. Available from 11am to 2.45pm every Saturday and Sunday, the menu includes luxurious dishes such as crab and crayfish brioche sandwich, grilled minute steak and the signature Rooftop Muffin, packed with sausage, egg, hash brown, smoked cheddar and treacle-cured bacon.
And to wash everything down? Why, a glass of Whispering Angel, of course.
Whispering Angel @ The Rooftop opens on 9 June 2023, visit trafalgarstjames.com to book.
