Restaurant review: The Engineer, Primrose Hill
Who says the Gastropub is dead – here is an Old School Pub with New School Flavours. You can have a proper feast at The Engineer!
THE DETAIL:
When I go and see a band in concert, typically I’m hoping for their greatest hits, not tracks from their new album. The same goes for eating out. There’s something extremely reassuring about French bistros. Yes, there are regional variances, but before you even sit down, you know what to expect on the menu, from Coq au Vin to Île Flottante. Decision-making is straightforward, and it’s down to each chef to interpret the classics in their own way.
Similarly, British pub fare follows familiar rhythms. Ploughman’s Lunch, Fish and Chips, Spotted Dick, with room for the chef’s own spin.
The Engineer, in Primrose Hill, has long held a good reputation, having served as a hub for the local community since 1994. The pub itself is a classic three-storey Victorian corner building, with a large, intimate walled garden at the rear and a dining room upstairs. Recently refreshed with a gentle makeover and a brand-new menu, we went to see if it still lives up to its name.
It remains unmistakably a pub but with elegant, contemporary touches. At the helm is Chef Nino Sadallah: half French, half Algerian, and originally a civil engineer; just like I.K. Brunel, the pub’s namesake. He brings his rich personal background to deliver a menu that seamlessly blends bistro comfort with gastro-pub creativity. And it’s an absolute tour de force.
This being a sunny day, and with the kitchen just next to the garden, my colleague and I chose to have lunch outside. Since we were close enough to Camden, we got into character with a pint of Hells while perusing their impressively curated wine list. It features over 40 varietals by the glass, from a Sauvignon to a Sancerre, with crowd-pleasing rosés like Whispering Angel and Minuty. Big names such as Barolo and Louis Jadot’s Chassagne-Montrachet also feature by the bottle. We each had a glass of Torres Purgatori with the duck, and a light, fruity Fleurie to accompany the rabbit pie.
Here’s how the meal panned out:
Starters
Beef Tartare
Lovely inclusion of chopped capers, lightly seasoned, gloriously golden cured egg, served with crisp toasts. Apparently, the yolk is cured for eight and a half hours to achieve perfect consistency. One of the best tartares I’ve ever tried, it’s balanced, restrained, and ready to be customised. And for me, that means Tabasco.
Beef Croquettes
Essentially breaded balls of pulled beef, not bulked out with potato. A spicy salsa adds heat and sweetness. This is a punchy, satisfying starter.
Scotch Eggs
With a deep golden yolk, they’re served with house-made piccalilli. While admirable, it’s a touch too sweet and missing the acidity needed to cut through the richness.
Devon crab
Serve with toasted brioche and lemon gremolata – sweet, fresh and wonderful.
Mains
Pan-roasted Duck Breast
Served on a bed of beetroot with asparagus and giant rosti chips. The duck’s texture was slightly grainy though nicely pink, and the rosti chips were a delight – crispy, golden, and fun.
The Engineer Pie (today’s was rabbit)
Topped with a puff pastry lattice lid, the filling had a sweet edge, with fennel, carrots, and leeks adding earthiness and depth.
Sides
Heritage carrots roasted in hot honey. Buttered cabbage. Mash with crumbled crispy onions. Green beans tossed with garlic and topped with toasted pine nuts. Simple, seasonal, and expertly done.
Puds
Chocolate Mousse
With amarena wild cherries and Maldon sea salt. A silky-smooth mousse, generous cherries, and with broken biscotti for crunch and almond flavour. An absolute winner.
Bramley Apple and Rhubarb Crumble with Vanilla Custard
Deep, buttery crumble, perfectly balanced fruit, and a smooth, pale custard. Just yes.
SUMMARY:
While The Engineer is quite a way from my home, it’s the kind of place worth going out of your way for. The food is full of love, the attention to detail is visible in every dish, and the front-of-house team is welcoming and faultless. A charming destination for anyone who appreciates good food in a relaxed setting.
The Engineer is at 65 Gloucester Ave., Greater, London NW1 8JH
Open every day from 12 noon to 11pm
