
10 of the world’s finest rosés
By Patrick Schmitt
The category of fine, or luxury rosé, is a fairly new phenomenon, and an expanding one, as more producers try to craft a complex and serious wine that’s also pink. Here, Patrick Schmitt MW picks out 10 of most successful examples following a major blind-tasting last month.

While the top-end of Champagne has for some time incorporated high-priced pink expressions, in still wine, it’s only recently that anyone has dared charge more than £100 for a rosé, and yet, today, there are a few wineries asking that, and more.
What makes such rosés different is sometimes the site selection – with the grapes taken from particular plots, often featuring old, low-yielding vines – but more commonly, it’s due to the cellar techniques, with fine rosés made like great white wines.
By that I mean hand-harvesting, whole-bunch pressing, barrel-fermentations and then maturation in oak vessels in contact with the wine’s fine lees. Such an approach, if well managed (and temperature control and oxygen management is key) can produce a rosé that has a wonderfully full texture, and be age-worthy too. In terms of taste when it’s young, one can expect ripe peachy flavours, allied to creamy, even toasty notes from the oak-influence.
Such wines should also, if they are to be classed as fine, be fresh in every sense: so both zesty and clean. The risk with making fine rosé is ending up with something that lacks the mouth-watering appeal of pink wine, either because it’s heavy, or tired: the characters of too much sweet oak and oxidised, bruised fruit are a danger when eschewing the inert, reductive environs of a stainless steel tank.
The following selection is based on this year’s Global Rosé Masters, which you can read more about below. These are the best expressions over £30 in the competition…
CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS ROSÉ 2023

- Producer: Château d’Esclans
- Region: Provence
- Country: France
- Grape varieties: 78% Grenache, 19% Rolle, 3% Tibouren
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £40
- Medal: Gold
Made exclusively from grapes grown on the estate, Château d’Esclans Rosé is carefully hand-harvested and chilled almost immediately to preserve freshness. Half of the wine is vinified in demimuids (600-litre oak barrels) and half in stainless steel, all temperature-controlled. Over approximately eight months of ageing before blending, the wine’s lees are stirred to increase richness and fullness. The resulting wine is pale peach-pink in colour, with soft yellow peach and ripe pear fruits and rose petal and cream overlay. Dry, the medium-bodied palate shows fresh acidity and density of flavour, and is layered and textured, with an allspice and nutmeg finish. Delicious with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with champignons and sautéed yellow onions. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
LES CLANS 2023

- Producer: Château d’Esclans
- Region: Provence
- Country: France
- Grape varieties: 52% Grenache, 48% Rolle
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £58
A powerhouse of a pink drink, Les Clans is a four-wheel-drive rosé that could go anywhere. Why? It’s got this wonderful trait of being rich and creamy, yet delicate and refreshing, making it suitable for sipping on its own or pairing with a wide range of foods, from cured meats to hard cheeses, grilled fish to root vegetables. But should you savour it without accompaniments, you will enjoy the mix of toasted marshmallow and pink grapefruit, along with peach and strawberry, and a lingering note of grilled nuts and citrus zest on the finish. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
GARRUS 2023

- Producer: Château d’Esclans
- Region: Provence
- Country: France
- Grape varieties: 67% Grenache, 33% Rolle
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £100
A wine that wows for its subtle complexity, Garrus is the ultimate rosé, and a drink for all occasions, impressing for its instantly appealing characters, as well as intriguing complexity. Whether you sip it slowly or find yourself swallowing it quickly, you’ll experience its complementary layers of flavours, starting with fresh ripe yellow and red fruits, followed by creamy, nutty notes, then some vanilla and toast, and finally lingering tinges of orange zest and grapefruit pith, with a touch of grilled lemon to boot. (Patrick Schmitt MW)