Unexpected Entertaining Pairings from MARTHA STEWART and CHATEAU D’ESCLANS Rosé Wines
As we move steadily into fall and soon after the holiday season, check out some great entertaining ideas and food & wine pairings from Martha Stewart’s Appetizers, her newest cookbook, paired with the rosé wines of Chateau d’Esclans – the winery which is forever changing the rosé occasion with their bold premium rosé offerings.
Though rosé is often viewed as a summer staple, Château d’Esclans’ unique portfolio offers premium, ageable rosés that complement the transitioning weather and fare.
Les Clans and Garrus, two of the winery’s high-end offerings, are made with the finest aged grapes and have flavor profiles reminiscent of white burgundies, which pair beautifully with the fall and winter bounty. Delicious recipes to accompany the offerings can be found in Martha Stewart’s Appetizers, a new collection of easy, yet stylish recipes that fit today’s way of cooking for and hosting events.
From more than 200 of Martha’s recipes, we’ve selected a few to highlight that are easy and delicious for entertaining this fall/holiday season!
Cheers!
Arancini, paired with Rock Angel
Sausage and Cheddar Balls, paired with Les Clans
Smoked Salmon on Rye Canapés, paired with Garrus
La Vie Est Belle à Carlton Cannes, A Regent Hotel
By Anuja Gaur
Riviera Restaurant: A Symphony on the Croisette
From a humble 1830s fishing village to an aristocratic Hollywood haven. The one-time modest and compact settlement in the picturesque South of France has triumphantly revolutionised its humble backdrop into a dazzling utopia for the world’s finest, glitterati society cliques.
To speak of Cannes without mentioning the Carlton Cannes is like ordering a martini without the olive; possible but utterly pointless, as the most legendary grand dame on the Croisette is more than a resplendent hospitality haven, but a gilded emblem of Riviera glamour and a starlet with perfect posture, all blended together with a cherished Century of secrets hidden beneath her Belle Époque façade.
The Carlton Cannes does not simply exist, it embodies where a stay here is not a matter of checking in, but a passage into another realm where refinement and seduction weave themselves into every hour of the day, and the very mention of its pedigreed title conjures visions of bejewelled gowns sweeping across parquet floors, as champagne flutes chime under the stars and hushed conversations sit held between those who shape the world, yet never need announce it. The hotel is not merely a setting, it is a protagonist in its own story, evoking a statuesque matron whose allure has never dimmed, but only deepened with the passing chronicled decades.
To be received into her embrace is to step into a dream carefully choreographed to enchant, each moment composed with elegance and intention, right from the warmth of her heartfelt welcome, to the epicurean theatre of her banquet table. For two nights, I had the honour of calling this Riviera jewel my home, a rare privilege that felt less like a stay and more like a fable brought to life, wrapped in the poetry of fine dining, gracious hosting and a heritage steeped in grandeur, yet always crowned with a shimmer of modern panache.
It is at Riviera Restaurant where Chef Laurent Bunel has orchestrated a dining experience that speaks in the melodic language of the Mediterranean, all carried by the sapid refinement of fine food as each dish is carefully attuned to wholesome seasonality, entwined with the local markets that inspire his team daily.
The opening act was a Tomato Carpaccio, its slices translucent and gleaming whilst laid out like crimson silk across porcelain as each mouthful revealed layers of sweetness, bordering on the fruity, tempered with a whisper of acidity, finally heightened by a drizzle of olive oil so golden and peppery, it seemed pressed just hours before.
Alongside a King Crab Salad arrived with regal poise, the flake,y tender meat pearlescent, tender and offering a natura,l fresh palate which melted against the zesty tang of citrus, and a cool thread of daintily herbed dressing. The textures were an interplay of firm and delicate, each bite a reminder that simplicity, when executed with mastery, is nothing short of luxurious.
The main encounter was unapologetically indulgent; a hearty yet elegant Australian Wagyu Tomahawk, carved at the table in a display of reverence that matched the quality of the cut. Its marbling had surrendered to the grill, producing a crust that was smoky and caramelised, sealing in a succulence so rich it seemed to dissolve before the palate could fully grasp it.
The flavour lingered to a deep and buttery play, yet balanced by the minerality of the accompanying spinach glossy with garlic and butter, and the generous helping of fries so golden and crisp, they shattered like glass at the bite, leaving only soft potato clouds behind. To sip was Les Clans 2023 from Château d’Esclans, a rosé of depth and character whose notes of peach, orange blossom and subtle spice wrapped themselves around the Wagyu like silk to cool down the richness, all the while amplifying its libertine beauty.
But it was for the dessert affair to play as the harmonious closing sonnet; a plum compote, its tartness softened by the perfume of Provence, crowned with wild, bold lavender and a smooth honey emulsion ice cream, that melted across the tongue like delicate satin. The heady floral notes appeared to rise gently, swirling into the fruity depth beneath, showcasing a concluding composition as fragrant as a balmy Summer garden at dusk. Dining here was not only a meal but a performance, with the terrace overlooking the Croisette and the Mediterranean glimmering away, just like a second course for the eyes.
Restaurant review: Sam’s Waterside, Brentford This place is so good that I now wish I lived in Brentford
By David Sefton
Fifteen or Twenty years ago, if I had suggested heading to Brentford, the only reason would have been to catch a Leeds United away match as the Bees and the Whites struggled in the lower fringes of the Championship with both making unwelcome forays into League One. Anyone else remember “Time to go, Massimo”? Makes me shudder.
There was certainly no other obvious reason to pierce the middle class firewall of Chiswick and head into a world of paper distributors and electric goods wholesalers shut off from the river by a long stretch of derelict or dilapidated buildings.
Yet here I am now in a warm, quietly luxurious, brasserie which overlooks the Thames as it flows through Brentford, surrounded by the sort of luxury new waterside developments you expect to find further downriver in more established areas. And then at a nearby table I notice Bentford’s Dutch keeper, Mark Flekken, enjoying a quiet supper with a friend following genuine heroics the night before (he saving the crucial penalty to take them through to the next round of the Carabao Cup). Even as a Leeds fan it was a fantastic watch, and the presence of a Premier League football star in a Brentford restaurant was a reminder that it is not just the football club that has come up in the world. And as one would expect from the (frankly) quite posh crowd that Sam’s restaurants attract, he was able to enjoy the evening entirely undisturbed by requests for selfies.
The Head Chef, Abbie Hendren, also has the area in her blood. She joined Sam’s Waterside as Sous Chef in November 2023, and her obvious talent led Sam Harrison to appoint Abbie as Head Chef. Before that her CV comprises places like the Petersham Hotel in Richmond, the Michelin starred Glasshouse in Kew, where she was Sous Chef, and its sister restaurant, La Trompette in Chiswick. The food we had on our visit proved out comments from others that she is a talent to watch.
Dinner was part of a series celebrating 20 years of the group, at which various of their suppliers and partners joined in – again a touch that speaks to the integrity of the owners. For our seafood evening, they were the excellent top end seafood suppliers Wright Brothers – who as well as supplying the trade also do home delivery – and Chateau d’Eclans, which has reinvented Provencal rose with Whispering Angel. D’Eclans is quite a story, with Sacha Lichine having gambled the family’s famous vinyards in Bordeaux (think Chateau Prieure-Lichine) to prove that you could make a fine wine with rose. Now it is one of the more famous wines in the world and he part owns it with one of the world’s great luxury brands groups, LVMH.
So some punchy support acts, but it was the food from Sam’s Waterside kitchen that was the star of the show.
First up was one of Wright Brother’s Carlingford Oysters with a perfect verjus dressing and a tempura shiso. I’m normally adamant that I prefer Oysters unmolested in their pure briny state – not even a vinaigrette, but I was won over by the clarity and compliment of these flavours. Short summary: given the chance I would eat a lot of this dish. And often too.
Then cured steelhead trout, with yuzu, avocado and radish, with thin black rice shards. Another spot on dish. Cured trout is such a perfect thing, and as with the oyster, the other parts of the dish helped to enhance the fish rather than overwhelm it. Pure, simple deliciousness.
And the meal kept going up a notch: firm, beautifully seared fillet of hake in a rich, warm, slightly spicy nduja sauce with cockles. The sauce was simply epic. I asked for a further bowl of just the sauce so that I could mop it up with some crusty sourdough. But even the sauce was put in the shade by the wonderful, sweet, little cockles. What a dish.
Then stone bass with crushed charlotte potatoes, crab bisque and pickled cucumber. And if that is not the definition of a perfect brasserie dish, I do not know what is. Impressively, I thought that the potatoes must have had a 50/50 butter to potato ratio, but it turns out Abbie has a special confit trick that enables her to make these without putting butter with them. Almost annoyingly great, and very indulgent. And the same adjective definitely needs to be applied to the basque cheesecake with poached English cherries. To cap it all, the dishes were accompanies by a climb through the offerings of d’Esclans from the entry level Wispering Angel, through Rock Angel to the rareified and rare heights of Les Clans, Garrus (my favourite) and Chateau d’Esclans itself.
AWhat to eat with Château d’Esclans rosé
By Michael Huband
While many drinkers are unsure of food pairings to match rosé, Château d’Esclans has suggested the perfect dishes to accompany its estate wines, from quiche to caviar.
Rosé has been one of the wine industry’s great success stories of this century, and Provence rosé has been central to that. Between 2010 and 2022, exports of Provence rosé have more than quadrupled and their average value has doubled.
Moreover, the southern French region has become the benchmark for the category globally: consumers judge the competition in relation to Provence.
The appeal has certainly proved irresistible. But it has also frequently been simplified. Too often, Provence rosé is characterised as just a hot weather wine: crisp, inoffensive and made for sipping by the pool. It is a characterisation that the region’s best producers are now refuting.
Château d’Esclans is a prime example. Founded in 2006 by Sacha Lichine, it was born of a mission to create the greatest rosés in the world.
The property is situated northeast of St. Tropez, looking over valleys and, in the distance, towards the Mediterranean. It offers a perfect position to craft authentic, quality-driven rosé.
Alongside founding winemaker Patrick Léon, Lichine built a portfolio that embraced both Provence tradition and innovative winemaking. It includes a variety of styles – now sold in more than 100 countries – that show the breadth of potential for rosé in Provence.
Of course, in that range there are still refreshing wines to sip by the pool. Whispering Angel – a category leader – is far more complex than the stereotype, but it undeniably serves as a popular thirst-quencher.
Yet Provence rosé, as made by Château d’Esclans, showcases far more than freshness and drinkability. The estate wines, in particular, have gastronomic potential that drinkers sometimes overlook. So what is the pairing potential of the high end rosés? We spoke to the winemaking team for their recommendations.
Château d’Esclans
Made solely with grapes from the Château’s own vineyards, this estate wine brings together the approaches that define the winery.
Its blended Grenache and Rolle grapes are picked early in the morning, preserving freshness before the Provençal sun starts to heat the vines. They are then fermented in a mix of stainless steel and barrels, preserving the quintessential freshness while adding fullness and a smooth, creamy texture.
This complex wine is elegant and versatile, so the dishes it can accompany are likewise wide-ranging. Its winemakers recommend richer vegetarian dishes, such as ratatouille, quiche lorraine or a salad of apple, walnuts and goat’s cheese. Equally, Château d’Esclans can complement fresher meat-based dishes, like beef carpaccio or chicken with tomatoes, olives and lemon risotto.
Les Clans
Though bearing the estate’s hallmarks, Les Clans marks a step-change in the gastronomic ambition of the range. Once again employing Grenache and Rolle, its winemaking is founded on principles of sophistication and richness.
In practice, that means 100% oak fermentation and maturation, using 600 litre temperature-controlled demi-muids. Twice weekly bâtonnage over its eleven months of ageing further builds its rich profile.
Lobster, sea bass ceviche and tuna tartare: the suggested pairings use Les Clans’ combination of body, elegance and exotic notes to complement richer servings of fish and sea food. It also, however, has the weight and balance to pair with French classics such as steak au poivre, cheese soufflé and terrine of foie gras.
Garrus
The combination of outstanding vineyards and precise winemaking has made Garrus a benchmark for fine rosé. It is concentrated and creamy, with richness and spicy notes that evoke top Burgundy and prestige Champagne.
Given the ambition behind it, the winemakers recommend iconic French dishes. It can offer freshness against some of the finest dishes in the world, like caviar or goat’s cheese. It also works well against the buttery delicacy of grilled sole with beurre blanc.
However, this is not a wine confined to a world of Michelin stars. Garrus’ combination of freshness and richness makes it ideal for humbler dishes that might grace the table at a family gathering. It will complement a rack of lamb, côte de bœuf with béarnaise sauce or roast chicken and sautéed rosemary potatoes – a wine equally suited to silver service as to grand-mère and grand-père’s dining room.
10 of the world’s finest rosés
By Patrick Schmitt
The category of fine, or luxury rosé, is a fairly new phenomenon, and an expanding one, as more producers try to craft a complex and serious wine that’s also pink. Here, Patrick Schmitt MW picks out 10 of most successful examples following a major blind-tasting last month.
While the top-end of Champagne has for some time incorporated high-priced pink expressions, in still wine, it’s only recently that anyone has dared charge more than £100 for a rosé, and yet, today, there are a few wineries asking that, and more.
What makes such rosés different is sometimes the site selection – with the grapes taken from particular plots, often featuring old, low-yielding vines – but more commonly, it’s due to the cellar techniques, with fine rosés made like great white wines.
By that I mean hand-harvesting, whole-bunch pressing, barrel-fermentations and then maturation in oak vessels in contact with the wine’s fine lees. Such an approach, if well managed (and temperature control and oxygen management is key) can produce a rosé that has a wonderfully full texture, and be age-worthy too. In terms of taste when it’s young, one can expect ripe peachy flavours, allied to creamy, even toasty notes from the oak-influence.
Such wines should also, if they are to be classed as fine, be fresh in every sense: so both zesty and clean. The risk with making fine rosé is ending up with something that lacks the mouth-watering appeal of pink wine, either because it’s heavy, or tired: the characters of too much sweet oak and oxidised, bruised fruit are a danger when eschewing the inert, reductive environs of a stainless steel tank.
The following selection is based on this year’s Global Rosé Masters, which you can read more about below. These are the best expressions over £30 in the competition…
Made exclusively from grapes grown on the estate, Château d’Esclans Rosé is carefully hand-harvested and chilled almost immediately to preserve freshness. Half of the wine is vinified in demimuids (600-litre oak barrels) and half in stainless steel, all temperature-controlled. Over approximately eight months of ageing before blending, the wine’s lees are stirred to increase richness and fullness. The resulting wine is pale peach-pink in colour, with soft yellow peach and ripe pear fruits and rose petal and cream overlay. Dry, the medium-bodied palate shows fresh acidity and density of flavour, and is layered and textured, with an allspice and nutmeg finish. Delicious with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with champignons and sautéed yellow onions. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
LES CLANS 2023
Producer: Château d’Esclans
Region: Provence
Country: France
Grape varieties: 52% Grenache, 48% Rolle
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £58
A powerhouse of a pink drink, Les Clans is a four-wheel-drive rosé that could go anywhere. Why? It’s got this wonderful trait of being rich and creamy, yet delicate and refreshing, making it suitable for sipping on its own or pairing with a wide range of foods, from cured meats to hard cheeses, grilled fish to root vegetables. But should you savour it without accompaniments, you will enjoy the mix of toasted marshmallow and pink grapefruit, along with peach and strawberry, and a lingering note of grilled nuts and citrus zest on the finish. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
GARRUS 2023
Producer: Château d’Esclans
Region: Provence
Country: France
Grape varieties: 67% Grenache, 33% Rolle
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £100
A wine that wows for its subtle complexity, Garrus is the ultimate rosé, and a drink for all occasions, impressing for its instantly appealing characters, as well as intriguing complexity. Whether you sip it slowly or find yourself swallowing it quickly, you’ll experience its complementary layers of flavours, starting with fresh ripe yellow and red fruits, followed by creamy, nutty notes, then some vanilla and toast, and finally lingering tinges of orange zest and grapefruit pith, with a touch of grilled lemon to boot. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
We are proud to announce the results of our wines from the 2025 Global Rosé Masters competition judged on 1 May at The Londoner Hotel in London, employing a distinguished group of experienced judges led by The Drinks Business Editor-In-Chief Patrick Schmitt. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Rosé Master with our wines receiving the following notes and accolades:
Whispering Angel 2024
Probably the world’s most famous rosé, and certainly one of the best-selling, it was pleasing to find that Whispering Angel is a benchmark for quality in the sub £20 category of pale dry pink wines. The rose’s appeal stems from a core of peach, pear and red berry fruit, complemented by a touch of bitter lemon on the finish, while texturally, this is soft in mouthfeel, but leaves one with feeling refreshed with its dry, citric edge.
Rock Angel 2024
The nose reveals delicate red berry aromas with hints of garrigue herbs. On the palate, peach and pomegranate fruit take the lead, supported by a lees-derived texture and a creamy mouthfeel. Subtle oak adds weight and extends the finish, enhancing both depth and length. Medium-plus acidity is well integrated, lending freshness without disrupting the wine’s rounded balance.
Château d’Esclans 2023
The wine is pale peach-pink in colour with soft yellow peach and ripe pear fruits with rose petal and cream overlay. Dry, the medium-bodied palate shows fresh acidity, density of flavour, layered and textured with an allspice and nutmeg finish.
Les Clans 2023
A power house of a pink drink, Les Clans is a four-wheel-drive rosé that could go anywhere. Why? It’s got this wonderful trait of being rich and creamy yet delicate and refreshing, making it suitable for sipping on its own, or pairing with a wide range of foods, from cured meats to hard cheeses, grilled fish to root vegetables. But should you savour it without accompaniments, you will enjoy the mix of toasted marshmallow and pink grapefruit, along with peach and strawberry, and a lingering note of grilled nuts and citrus zest on the finish.
Garrus 2023
Garrus is the ultimate rosé, and a wine for all occasions, wowing for its instantly-appealing characters, as well as intriguing complexity. Whether you sip it slowly or find yourself swallowing it quickly, you’ll experience is complementary layers of flavours, starting with fresh ripe yellow and red fruits, followed by creamy, nutty notes, then some vanilla and toast, and finally, lingering tinges of orange zest and grapefruit pith, with a touch of grilled lemon to boot.
Provence rosé: This summer’s best buys
By Elizabeth Gabay MW
Elizabeth Gabay MW picks 30 of her favourite Provence rosés from the 2024 vintage, finding plenty of classic character but also a growing number of producers making small experiments.
The main challenges of this year’s rosé tasting appear to have been balancing climate change’s increasingly hotter and drier summers with consumer demand for lower alcohol and white wine.
2024 in Provence included a relatively wet spring, and a rather hot summer, but winemakers seem to agree that it was, overall, a good vintage.
Generally, the quality was good, with scores clumping around 88-89.
Provence seems to be a safe bet, with homogeneous style and consistent quality.
This seems to be the major strength of the region, especially the gap between mid-range and premium seems to be narrowing.
The famous names are good, but the gap is narrowing. There are now many newcomers or lesser-known producers making excellent rosé in similar styles, often at very competitive prices.
Paler than ever
More than ever before, the 2024 rosés were extremely pale, verging on the white with a tinge of pink.
A number of wines showed evidence that they were harvested early to retain fresh acidity, the pale colour, and achieve lower alcohol, but this unripe fruit often resulted in green, acidic wines lacking in charm or character.
The best embraced riper fruit, albeit with a touch more alcohol at around 13.5%, sometimes with a touch more colour, and increasingly including some older vintages.
Oak-aged rosés, once outliers, are now a staple in the range of many, if not most, Provence rosé producers.
But, what was once a singular category of ‘oaked rosé’ is now a range of styles and choices, ranging from almost imperceptible to deep, complex, and age-worthy.
Oak is no longer the main indicator of premium quality rosé, even if many of the very best did spend some time in barrel.
Provence appellations and their hectarage under vine.
Adventurous styles emerging
Just being pale pink is no longer the prime consideration when buying rosé, particularly for younger, more adventurous consumers.
Even in Provence, there are plenty of wines for those happy to embrace darker colours and more adventurous styles.
It was exciting to see a growing amount of diversity in winemaking, ranging from reductive fresh and fruity wines to rosés in oak, amphora and eggs as well as different varieties, such as Viognier and Muscat, contributing further to the range of different styles.
These aromatic varieties worked best when carefully handled and not used as a substitute for fruit in more unripe wines.
Terroir conversation
With increased conversation recently about the different terroirs around Provence, the higher quality rosés often stood out for their use of local grape varieties and their regional expression, working with terroir rather than against it.
Bandol again stands out for its structured, concentrated Mourvèdre-heavy rosés, most of which do justify their slightly higher price tags.
The Côtes de Provence sub-appellations (La Londe, Sainte Victoire, Fréjus, Pierrefeu and Notre-Dame-des-Anges) are still good options for slightly higher quality rosé, with Notre-Dame-des-Anges standing out this year.
The Luberon is a good place to look in 2025 for some really excellent value-for-money, especially from slightly fuller-bodied, more concentrated wines than the pale delicacy found elsewhere in Provence this vintage.
With such a large region, the scope for a variety of styles is large. This also highlights a divide in the range of wines being produced.
The majority of rosés conformed to the classic Provence blueprint in various degrees of success: dry, mineral, delicate peach and redcurrant fruit and fresh acidity.
As ‘Provence-style’ is adopted ever more widely across the world, Provençal producers need to do more to emphasise local terroirs, and move away from the lowest common denominator of pale colour.
Château d’Esclans, Les Clans, Côtes de Provence, France 2023
This is quite a powerful rosé that should not be drunk fresh from the fridge; it definitely benefits from decanting when drunk young. Pale pink and strongly oaky with notes of spice and vanilla opening up to notes of pretty bergamot, elegant elderflower and some exotic fruit. On the palate the initial closed oaky character opens to reveal a lovely intensity of ripe exotic fruit and a sweet oaky structure. The complex combination of exotic fruit and a twist of salinity creates a rich and unctuous wine to be drunk now or for ageing.
Points 92
Château d’Esclans propels Provençal rosé wine into the international elite with innovation and tradition.
The French winery combines modern techniques and historical heritage to position its rosés among the most highly valued in the world.
Château d’Esclans is located in La Motte-en-Provence, in the Var department in southern France. This winery is located an hour from the French Riviera, between Saint-Tropez and Cannes. The site has an agricultural history dating back more than 2,500 years, as evidenced by the ruins of a Roman tower that still stand atop the hill where the vineyards are located.
In 2006, Sacha Lichine acquired the property. Sacha is the son of Alexis Lichine, a renowned figure in the French wine world. Since his arrival, Sacha has driven a profound change in the production and perception of Provençal rosé wine. His goal was to place rosé on a par with the most internationally appreciated wines and distance it from the seasonal or summery image it had previously held. To achieve this, he relied on modern techniques and an approach focused on quality and exclusivity.
The technical team is led by Bertrand Léon, a winemaker with experience inherited from his father, Patrick Léon, who was also a leading figure in the French wine industry. Bertrand works alongside Jean-Claude Neu, cellar master since 2006. They oversee every stage of the process, from the harvest to bottling.
The grapes, primarily Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino), are harvested by hand at dawn to preserve the freshness of their grapes. After harvesting, the grapes undergo a double selection process: first by hand and then by optical selection. The must is obtained without maceration and fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks or 600-liter oak barrels, depending on the wine. The most exclusive wines receive special treatment with Burgundian-style bâtonnage and barrel aging.
Château d’Esclans produces several internationally renowned wines. Whispering Angel is the winery’s most popular wine and one of the world’s best-selling rosés. Rock Angel offers greater structure and minerality. Les Clans is a barrel-fermented rosé that seeks complexity and culinary versatility. Garrus represents the château’s most exclusive wine; it comes from old vines and is aged for a long time in new barrels.
The estate boasts 240 hectares of its own vineyards and is located in a protected natural setting. The technical and commercial management have ensured that the château’s wines appear on the menus of internationally renowned restaurants and are collector’s items among wine enthusiasts.
Wine tourism is an important part of the current project. Château d’Esclans welcomes visitors throughout the year to show off its facilities, explain its working methods, and offer guided tastings. The visit provides an insight into both the site’s ancient history and the modern processes that have made the château a world leader in rosé wines.
The transformation driven by Sacha Lichine responds to an international trend toward exclusive products and differentiated experiences within the wine industry. The commercial and media success achieved by Château d’Esclans has influenced other Provençal wineries, which have followed suit to improve their processes and position their wines in international markets.
The case of Château d’Esclans shows how a combination of historical tradition, technical innovation, and entrepreneurial vision can change the perception of a specific type of wine. This commitment to quality has allowed Provençal rosé to gain presence beyond the local level and be appreciated by discerning consumers in different countries.
“No risk. No fun.” Inside the mind of Château d’Esclans’ Sacha Lichine
The invite didn’t say ‘No riff-raff’ but it could have done. For a deep dive into his super-premium rosés Les Clans and Garrus, Sacha Lichine chose exclusive Mayfair club Annabel’s to show the stylistic differences between these two wood-aged rosés. Like Whispering Angel’s Barbie-like success, Les Clans and Garrus are ‘pinks’ where you are paying for more than what’s in the bottle – it’s a lifestyle you’re tapping into, a signifier of success and good taste. Wine scribe and winemaker Chris Wilson gets under the skin of ultra-premium rosé in Lichine’s company, armed with a full-on vertical of each wine.
By Chris Wilson
“This isn’t tennis club rosé,” says Paul Chevalier, vice president of Château d’Esclans. We are gathered to taste two verticals of the estate’s famous – and famously highly-priced – rosés Les Clans and Garrus.
They may not be fit for the tennis club, but seemingly they are the perfect fit for the private members’ club, as the tasting is taking place in one of the dining rooms of exclusive Mayfair club Annabel’s (dress code: no hats, no Lycra, no heavily branded clothing; etiquette code: no photos; sub-text: no riff-raff).
Obviously everyone broke the rules on the photos, if only managing a quick pap-snap when no-one was looking. You can’t expect a room full of excited, slightly tipsy British journalists not to break the rules.
Sacha Lichine bought Provence estate Chateau D’Esclans in 2006
Château d’Esclans is best known for the sensation that is Whispering Angel, a global Provençal rosé brand that’s loved by everyone from Lady Gaga to The Beckhams, and sets you back £22+ a bottle off the supermarket shelf, and probably the same by-the-glass at the Pacha Ibiza or wherever it’s served.
Whispering Angel is made from “98-99% purchased fruit” and the current annual production is 10m bottles. It’s a pink-hued success story on a par with Barbie, and, off the back of Whispering Angel, Chateau D’Esclans has cemented its rosé reputation and been emboldened to push into the ultra-premium rosé market with its estate wines Les Clans and Garrus; both are small production wines made from 100% estate fruit.
“We’re not trying to change the world,” says Sacha Lichine, the brains behind the brands, who acquired Château d’Esclans in 2006. ”We’re just saying that rosé can be fine wine if you want it to be. We are trying to make the category better and better.”
A young Sacha Lichine with father Alexis – Sacha started running family-owned Prieuré Lichine at the age of 27
During the two hour lunch, Lichine punctuates every moment with brilliant one-liners like these; he has a snappy headline-grabbing response to every question asked and brushes off any comments he doesn’t agree with.
“Quality is what sells, not appellation anymore,” is one such remark. “Women have driven this category,” is another. The best though is “no risk, no fun,” and it’s this one that rings very true as Lichine sold a Bordeaux Château to get into Provençe and ignite the premium Provençal rosé revolution.
When he bought d’Esclans almost 20 years ago the estate was improved and upgraded, from the vineyards to the cellar. It’s now owned by LVMH, and has Bertrand Leon’s (son of original consulting oenologist Patrick Leon) steady hand on the winemaking tiller.
“We are closer to a spirit brand than a wine brand.” Sacha Lichine
Both wines are made from Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) ‘roughly’ in a 70/30 per cent ratio. Other grapes are grown on the estate, such as Syrah and Cinsault, and used in other rosés, but Syrah is too candied and Cinsault adds nothing, it just bulks things out, or as Lichine puts it, “makes more sauce”. No sauce in the top wines.
Both Les Clans and Garrus are made from hand-picked fruit, harvested in the cool of the morning, then the grapes are cooled again before pressing in an inert closed-circuit press to avoid oxidation. 85-90% of the juice for the wine is free run, so it flows gently through the skins in the press, hence the light colour. At harvest time “it’s a race against oxidation,” says Lichine.
So far, so Provençal rosé… but it’s at the next step where the rulebook is ripped up. Fermentation in steel is the usual practice here, and that’s the Whispering Angel way, but Les Clans and Garrus are both fermented in barrel, specifically 600L French oak barrels each fitted with a cooling rod to regulate the temperature.
The wines are aged for around 11 months in oak, which is much longer than for most rosé wines; this prolonged time in oak adds texture and structure to the wines, and – in some – a touch of creaminess.
“You never want to taste wood, you want it to just create an extra layer of complexity to make it longer in your mouth and on your tongue, and that’s all that we’re using wood for,” says Lichine. “The wine has to deserve the wood as well so the yields are low,” he adds. The vines for Les Clans, for example, are 50-70 years of age and the Garrus vines a little older, both low-yielding. Garrus sees a little more new oak than Les Clans.’
“Doing it this way we create a wine that is richer and fuller and has more vigour,” says Chevalier. “The simplicity of fruit becomes more complex. The idea of ageability comes into play when the wine is made in this way.”
Many of the wines start like a white and finish like a red, these are complex rosés, and they fit wonderfully in a gastronomic context, which is probably what Chevalier was getting at with his tennis club remark. Both Les Clans and Garrus deserve a little more attention than most of the quaffable Provençe rosés on the market, and given the price tags (north of £100 a bottle for many of the vintages below) you certainly expect something more.
“We are closer to a spirit brand than a wine brand,” says Lichine, reeling off another juicy soundbite, and that’s spot on. Both with Whispering Angel and with these ultra-premium wines you are paying for more than what’s in the bottle, it’s a lifestyle you’re tapping into, a signifier of success and good taste.
And so to the wines
Below you’ll find some brief notes on the verticals of the two wines. On the whole there was a stylistic balance between them, across the two cuvées, but Garrus was slightly richer and creamier, Les Clans more fruit-forward.
Les Clans 2023
Full in the mouth, weighty. Raspberry fruit with a herbaceous edge. It has the aromatic intensity of a warm region white wine. You can certainly ‘feel’ the 14% ABV. “A very good vintage, one of the best we’ve ever had in Provençe,” says Lichine.
Les Clans 2022
Softer, more rounded. Again aromatic, but the fruit here is red cherry and pomegranate. Some mineral notes around the edges.
Les Clans 2021
More mineral, oyster shell even. Freeze-dried raspberry this time, crisper. Lovely delicacy and sweetness of fruit. Tasted from double magnum.
Les Clans 2020
Suave, smooth, ripe, Feels less ‘red’ than the others. The accents here are floral and tropical, pineapple. Some herby notes too. Tasted from magnum.
Les Clans 2017
This has aged well. More woody and savoury than the rest of the flight, but remains fleshy and full. Still fresh and immediate with good acidity. These are generous wines.
Garrus 2023
Bright and lucid with raspberry and almond notes and a crystalline tension. Elegant and as classy as you can imagine. Rich.
Garrus 2022
Generous, weighty. Lingering red fruit. Hefty alcohol at 14.5%! Definitely not to drink while playing tennis.
Garrus 2021
More like a white wine than any of the others. Yellow peach, flint and a mineral backbone are the key takeaways. Delightfully full finish with a smidge of oak creaminess.
Garrus 2020
Tasted from magnum. Muscular and punchy, a powerhouse pink. White pepper spice, toasted nuts and herbs all dance merrily along beneath the primary fruit notes of ripe peach and raspberry. Bold and serious.
Garrus 2017
Spicy and opulent with red berry fruit and a delicate acidity, still balanced after all this time. Proof, if needed, that rosé can age, and age well. Tasted from magnum.
NO RISK NO FUN – SACHA LICHINE ON FINE ROSÉ WINES
By Darren McCabe Food & Drink
Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans & GARRUS Vertical Tasting
On Friday, March 7th, I had the pleasure of joining Sacha Lichine, the visionary founder of Château d’Esclans, for a delightful lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair. The highlight of the afternoon was a vertical tasting of the exquisite Les Clans and Garrus fine wines, held in the elegant surroundings of Annabel’s.
A Haven of Tranquil Elegance
Located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, Annabel’s is renowned as one of the world’s most prestigious private members’ clubs. Established in 1963, it has long been a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. In 2018, Annabel’s underwent a stunning transformation, moving to 46 Berkeley Square and receiving a lavish redesign by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The redesign beautifully preserved the building’s historic features, including its grand staircase, intricate plaster ceilings, and elegant fireplaces.
Our tasting took place in the haven of tranquil elegance known as The Silver Room. Overlooking the enchanting garden this room is adorned with original Georgian features, meticulously restored with silver detailing. The bespoke silver glass panels depict classical figures, creating a sophisticated and serene atmosphere. Designed for private events, the Silver Room made it perfect setting for this intimate lunch.
The visionary
Sacha Lichine, a visionary in the wine industry, has against all the odds, transformed Château d’Esclans into a symbol of excellence in Provence. Born in Bordeaux and educated in America, Sacha has immersed himself in every facet of the wine business, from production to sales. His early experiences at his family’s former estates, Château Prieuré Lichine and Château Lascombes, provided him with a solid foundation in winemaking and the wine trade.
In 2006, Sacha left Bordeaux and acquired Château d’Esclans, located in the picturesque hills northeast of St. Tropez. With a bold vision to create the world’s finest rosés, he spearheaded what is now known as the ‘Rosé Renaissance’. It was a huge risk, Sacha smiled as he shared, he’d just read the book ‘No Risk, No Fun’. Back then some people did think he was crazy, trading his family business in Bordeaux to make Rose in Provence, “Bankers wouldn’t give me an overdraft, and the trade would say ‘rosé doesn’t sell’. Sacha explained that when building a brand you need to have three or four layers, price points and therefore the fine wines are accompanied by the world famous Whispering Angel, now selling over £10m bottles worldwide (up from 130,000) along with Rock Angel, “a kind of Super Whispering”, and Chateau D’Esclans. We were keen to know where he got the ideas for their names, “Whispering Angel, Rock Angel are names inspired by the chapel at the property, with cherubs above the altar and Garrus is the knoll, or plot in the hillside at the estate”.
Les Clans and Garrus: The Pinnacle of Fine Wines
Many people think of rosé as a simple, summer drink, best enjoyed in the sunshine and often consumed without much thought. However, it might be surprising to learn that rosé can have the complexity and longevity of fine wines. Les Clans and Garrus, in particular, defy these expectations with their remarkable depth and aging potential. We tasted through Les Clans and Garrus 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017. Both are exceptional examples of fine wines that challenge the conventional perceptions of rosé. All the grapes used are estate grown grapes, with Les Clans vines being 50-70 years old and Garrus being older. The wines resemble a white at the beginning and finish as a red, a style they have been perfecting with the 2023 vintage.
The colour can be deceiving to some, its light and pale, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it wouldn’t have much taste and body but it’s just to the contrary. Whilst there is very little colour variation across these vintages Sacha’s focus is on “consistency of style rather than colour, seeking elegance in the ripe and well-grown Grenache”. The blend of Grenache and Rolle produces refined flavours, with Rolle adding richness. “A tad of Tibouren contributes a floral touch”, though Sacha is not a great fan of it. He emphasised that” the wine must deserve the wood it ages in”. Experimentation with different barrels, woods, and coopers has led to wines that never taste of wood but offer an extra layer of complexity, making them linger on the palate.
The 2023 vintage stands out as a remarkable year for both Les Clans and Garrus. This vintage represents a significant milestone in the history of Provence rosé, with all three Château d’Esclans wines achieving exceptional acclaim. Garrus is characterised by its remarkable clarity and brightness, showcasing a refined structure and subtle notes of oak and almond. The wine’s elegance and composure are reminiscent of some of the finest Burgundian whites. But “its tyring to be its own individual style, it might resemble white burgundy but has a style of its own, it tastes well”. Les Clans from 2023 is celebrated for its harmonious balance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for pairing with a wide range of dishes.
Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed all of them the 2020 vintage stood out as my favourite. They have proven to be exceptional, demonstrating the potential for aging and the depth of flavour that can be achieved with meticulous winemaking. These wines are not only a delight to drink now but also promise to continue evolving beautifully in the years to come.
Their ability to age gracefully is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative techniques employed in their production. These wines evolve beautifully over time, developing deeper flavours and greater complexity, making them ideal for aging. “We’re not trying to change the world, what we’re trying to offer is that rose can be a fine wine if one wants it to be”.
A race against oxidation
Sacha’s dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of the production process. From handpicking the grapes to experimenting with different barrels and woods, every detail is carefully considered. Harvesting is completed by lunchtime, using crates with dry ice and pellets to maintain the coolness of the grapes, preserving the fruit and flavour until the last moment. With the help of a group of engineers from Bordeaux, his team has developed a state-of-the-art technology, including nitrogen gas to reduce oxidation and a glycol system with tentacles that chill inside the barrels. This innovation allows for controlled fermentation at different temperatures, making these wines possible today. “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.” Garrus, comprising 90% free-run juice the wine is vinified in the whitest 600-litre barrels you will come across, new oak (20%), second-year oak (40%), and third-year oak (40%). Renewing the barrels every three years undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period gives the wines a lovely blanched almond flavour, whilst building structure and depth.
The risk paid off
The 2025 vintage, set to be released in 2026, will mark the Chateau’s 20th vintage. The investment in Provence has grown reflecting the commitment to quality. The category is improving, and as it does, interest grows.
The risk taken has paid off, with the wines now available in 110 countries. 50% of sales are in the US and 25% in the UK, with the rest of the world accounting for the final 25%. Sacha hails the UK as being crucial for the fine wine market, and without it, there would be no such market.
Conclusion
Sacha Lichine’s dedication to innovation and quality has brought Provence rosé to the global map. His wines, from Whispering Angel to Garrus, showcase the potential of rosé as a fine wine, driven by a vision of elegance and refinement.
Les Clans and Garrus are more than just rosé wines; they are masterpieces that showcase the potential of rosé as fine wine. Their age-worthiness and compatibility with food, combined with Sacha Lichine’s expertise and commitment to quality, make them truly exceptional. These wines are a testament to the fact that with the right knowledge and investment, rosé can achieve the same level of sophistication and elegance as the finest wines in the world.
