chateau Archives - Chateau d'Esclans

2023 will go down in Provence rosé history as the vintage when all three ‘Château d’Esclans’ wines hit the high notes simultaneously. The trio of 2023s will be released in February 2025 and I was privileged to taste them with Sacha Lichine in London in November and it further underlined that these are genuinely authentic fine wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the world’s top sparklers, whites and reds.

Garrus has long been the finest rosé on the planet, and I find so much to admire in this wine, it is incredible.

2023 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé is firm, bright, crystalline and refined with blonde oak and almond highlights and a level of composure usually only found in graceful Grand Cru Burgundies. Precision cut, reserved and reluctant to show its full hand this early in its development, this is another cosmic performance from this trail-blazing wine.

My headliner, Les Clans, shows another level of elegance, coupled with lip-smacking precocity, so while Garrus is one for the cellar, Les Clans is ready to romance from the moment it is released. Near perfect in weight, timbre and balance, this is a glorious wine, and it can perform every duty from complex canapés to main course feasts! Where Garrus slows the conversation down so one can fully appreciate the constellation of flavours present, Les Clans skips along merrily, making it the definitive ‘rich person’s fast wine’. If you were left to your own devices, I could see

Les Clans disappearing at an impressive rate of knots without ever tiring the taste buds or becoming repetitive.

Finally, it is extremely exciting to announce that the estate wine, 2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé, has finally, and it has been a bit of a wait, joined its fellows at the top of the tree. For as long as I can remember, this cuvée has been meandering around searching for a purpose, while Whispering Angel and Rock Angel bookended the portfolio at the commercial end and Les Clans and Garrus soared around the stratosphere. In 2023, there is so much gravitas and purity it has gone from also-ran to catwalk-ready in one fell swoop. I would go so far as to say the silhouette of this wine is more Puligny-like than many Pulignys! This is easily the most exciting estate Esclans to date, and it is fabulously open and vibrant with skipping stone flavours and lashings of joie de vivre. What a trio!

Wines of the Year 2024

By Tom Cannavan

I have published my Wines of the Year for 27 years. Choosing for 2024 was as challenging as ever, but I’ve managed to slot in one wine in each of ten categories. Among my choices are rare old Australian wines that come from dinners with generous friends in Melbourne that I will never forget.
As always, I invited visitors to wine-pages.com to send in their own nominations for publication on the site. The ‘Dud’ could be the worst or most disappointing wine, and ‘Thing’ can be used as imaginatively as you like. The definition of ‘budget’ in this exercise will vary for each person, so there’s no hard and fast rule.

Tom’s Wines of the Year 2024

Château d’Esclans, Garrus Rosé 2022

Provence, France, Dry Rosé, Cork, 14.5% abv

95 Points

From a single vineyard of 100-year-old vines, Garrus is fermented and aged in new French oak, but larger 600-litre barrels. There’s an intensity here, dried apricot and an earthy, dried fig nuance over both small red berries and a creamy almond and nut husk background. In the mouth there is immense concentration. It’s a rosé with real grip and purpose, and many layers of flavour and texture. Another convincing Garrus, with extract and phenolic that few achieve, but importantly, done with grace and elegance too.

So few French wines in my list this year. That reflects tasting opportunities, but also that I am keen to explore all sorts of wines and all sorts of regions. Some of my choices are from a holiday in Australia in January/February where meeting up with local wine lovers was an absolute highlight, and the generosity of them sharing truly historic vintages of fabled Australian wines was quite extraordinary.

There were also wonderful ‘offlines’ in London and Edinburgh when friends from this site’s community shared some fabulous bottles – including the extraordinary 1802 Madeira in the list above.

My dud is a ‘Vin de France’. I awarded it 85 points (“Average. A wine with no serious flaws, but no distinction”), so not an awful review, and while I feel bad about singling out one example and, indeed, one wine classification, it represents so many others: fantasy brands with no provenance that are 100% ‘product’; but zero percent soul. The

Vin de France classification allows wines to be blended from across French regions and some producers are using it as an opportunity to make really interesting wines, but others to concoct wines purely to fit some marketing profile. Vin de France is not alone of course: it’s a game that Australia and other countries without strict appellation rules invented. I’m just rather weary of these perfectly ‘pleasant’ but characterless wines.

My thing of the year: friends and family. As I get older I value the company and the good times shared with family and friends, old and new, more and more. I appreciate their loyalty and support. Thank you.

On June 11, after weeks of rain, the sun was shining, as were the smiles on the faces in our arty haunt in the heart of the 8th arrondissement of Paris. 80 of our loyal customers, especially young this year, had indeed met at the Galerie Guillaume, for a tasting of summer wines. A little tour of France of wines that we will tell you in the form of a photo album.

The little hands of the iDealwine employees are busy at the end of the day, customers are expected at 6:30 p.m.

On the walls of the Galerie Guillaume, the exhibition Lights of Day and Night by the artist François-Xavier de Boissoudy. Here, “View of the River”, 2024, ink on paper, 125 x 100cm.

THE WINEGROWERS PRESENT

PROVENCE: CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS WITH VICTORIA DESPLANCKE

We continue our little tour of France through Provence. Judging by your purchases, the whispering angels have inspired you for this summer.
• Whispering Angel 2023 (rosé)
• Château d’Esclans Côtes de Provence 2022 (rosé)
• Les Clans 2022 (rosé)
• Garrus 2022 (rosé)

Pairing tips for rosé wines

Exploring wine pairing can completely transform the dining experience, elevating both the dish and the drink chosen.

When it comes to rosé wine , versatility is its trademark, capable of accompanying a wide range of dishes and occasions.

Rosé wine stands out for its lightness and freshness, characteristics that make it perfect for pairing with foods with a delicate to moderately intense flavor.

Tips for Pairing Rosé Wine

Ideal Dishes for Rosé Win

Rosé wines are known for their ability to pair with a variety of dishes. From light salads and seafood dishes to white meats and mild cheeses, the pairing can be surprisingly broad. A key aspect for successful pairing is considering the aromatic profile and structure of the chosen rosé wine.

For example, a rosé from Provence, famous for its subtlety and floral notes, pairs wonderfully with fresh salads or lightly seasoned fish dishes. A fuller-bodied rosé, perhaps from the Tavel region in France, can support dishes with more intense flavors, such as grilled white meats or Mediterranean dishes.

Cheeses and Rosé Wine: A Versatile Combination

The choice of cheese to accompany your rosé wine can vary widely depending on the strength and style of the wine. Fresh, soft cheeses, such as Brie or Camembert, complement the lightness and freshness of more subtle rosés. On the other hand, cheeses with more striking flavors, such as feta or even chèvre, can enhance the attributes of a more robust rosé.

It is important to note that the serving temperature of the wine also influences the pairing experience. A rosé wine served slightly chilled, around 8-10°C, will best reveal its qualities, providing a refreshing contrast to the richness of creamy cheeses or the saltiness of marine appetizers.

Considering these aspects, pairing rosé wines is not limited to rigid rules, but rather to experimentation and balance between the flavors of the dish and the wine. Whether for an elegant dinner or a casual picnic, rosé wine offers endless pairing possibilities, capable of pleasing different palates.

Glass of rosé wine and cheese (Image: IA)

FAQs – Frequently Asked Questions

What does rosé wine taste like?

The flavor of rosé wine is remarkably diverse, varying significantly depending on the grape used, the terroir and the production method. In general, rosé wines are characterized by their lightness and freshness, with a delicate balance between acidity and sweetness. Many have fruity and floral notes, including aromas of strawberry, cherry, raspberry and roses, with mineral touches in some examples. This combination of flavors makes rosé wine extremely versatile, suitable for both casual and more formal occasions.

When tasting a rosé wine, it is possible to perceive a complexity that defies the notion that it is a less sophisticated option compared to reds and whites. Its flavor palette, which can range from citrus notes to herbaceous touches, reflects the diversity of winemaking techniques and choices made by the winemaker, providing a unique and pleasant sensorial experience.

What is the difference between red and rosé wine?

The main difference between red wine and rosé lies in the production method, especially the contact time between the grape juice and the skins. Red wines are produced by allowing a longer maceration period, which extracts more tannins, color and flavors from the grape skins. This results in fuller-bodied wines, with greater complexity of flavors and aging potential. Rosé wines are made by limiting this contact, resulting in a lighter color, less tannins and lighter, fruitier flavors, reflecting the essence of freshness.

Another important difference is the versatility in gastronomic pairing. While reds generally pair best with red meat and more robust dishes, rosés have the ability to pair with a wider variety of foods, from light starters to white meats and seafood, thanks to their lightness and balanced aromatic profile.

When do you drink rosé wine?

Rosé wine is exceptionally versatile, suitable for a variety of occasions, from a relaxing outdoor picnic to an elegant dinner party. Its lightness and freshness make it the perfect choice for hot summer days, but its complexity and variety also allow it to be enjoyed all year round. Rosé is ideal for social events, such as parties and receptions, as it tends to be a “democratic” wine, pleasing a wide range of palates.

Furthermore, it is an excellent option for aperitifs or to accompany light meals, such as salads, seafood dishes and mild cheeses. The flexibility of rosé wine, capable of pairing with a variety of dishes, makes it a smart choice for any occasion that requires a sophisticated and accessible drink.

What are the best rosé wines?

The “best” rosé wines depend on personal taste, but some examples stand out on the international scene for their quality and representation. Rosé wines from Provence, France, are widely recognized for their excellence, exhibiting balance, freshness and aromatic subtlety. Brands such as Château d’Esclans (Whispering Angel) is (among) the most prestigious.

In addition to France, regions such as Spain, Italy and the United States also produce high-quality rosés. In Spain, rosés from Navarra offer excellent value for money, while in Italy, rosés from Tuscany and Sicily enchant with their personality. In the United States, the highlight is California rosés, which combine innovation and tradition. Choosing the best rosé wine should consider the desired flavor profile and the occasion, encouraging experimentation and personal discovery.