Maternal Love: the inspiration for the third edition of chiles en nogada at Carmela & Sal, Chef Gaby Ruiz’s restaurant
By Eugenia Revoreda
Chef Gaby Ruiz ‘s Carmela & Sal restaurant presents its third edition of Chiles en nogada —one of the emblematic dishes of the gastronomy of Puebla and Mexico—, inspired by maternal love and whose pairing can be made with wines from the high-end house Château D’Esclans by Moët Hennessy.
Her gaze reflects it deeply: the emotion with which chef Gaby Ruiz Lugo formally presented the third season of Chiles en Nogada at Carmela & Sal , has a very powerful reason for being, and that is that she announced that she is pregnant and before this event “everything in her life has turned pink”.
The tasting menu: the perfect combination of ingredients, flavors and seasons
Green oil with peas and green beans Pairing: rosé wine ‘Whispering Angel’
The herbal and very fresh flavors stood out in the first part of the menu that chef Gaby Ruiz prepared to accompany the dish of this third edition of the Chiles en nogada from Carmela & Sal .
The flavor of the fresh and seasonal peas, in conjunction with the green oil and the green beans, mixed to give way to a bed of crunchy, unctuous, light and very fresh textures that combined in harmony with the dry and soft taste profile of the rosé wine and notes on the nose of red fruits and flowers, the Whispering Angel rosé wine from the the Côtes de Provence region, in France.
Rosé is an all year round wine, but everyone knows that rosés become more irresistible in summer. So, glasses at the ready for this year’s seasonal round-up of new wines and new vintages.
To repeat a few things I said last year: rosés aren’t only for the aperitif or poolside slots. They often make very good food wines, not least with the sort of dishes you might be having in warm weather – grilled and barbecued fish, seafood, charcuterie, salads, vegetable tarts, chicken dishes, pasta and picnic fare.
All wines need to be kept out of sunlight to avoid spoilage by light strike (does what it says on the tin) but rosés are often more vulnerable, above all when they’re in clear glass bottles. Ideally, we’d have dark, opaque wine glasses, but that’s a step too far.
Pink wines should be served chilled and then kept cold while you make further inroads into the bottle, box or pouch. Wine cooler sleeves kept in the freezer or ice box are invaluable for bottles. Chilling your glass by swirling a couple of ice cubes round it before you start is another good move when the sun is beating down. If your wine does end up too warm, you can always resort to an ice cube lobbed into the liquid itself.
This year I’m kicking off my recommendations with three wines in sustainable packaging. These are all the more relevant and praiseworthy in the context of rosé when so many, especially from Provence, come in absurdly heavy glass bottles.
I’ve given empty bottle weights at the end of each tasting note when I have them – and I can tell you there are some shockers. I’m sorry to say that three of my top-scoring wines are the worst offenders by a long way. If Chanel (yes, that Chanel) can put its Domaine de L’Ile rosé, my other top scoring wine, in a bottle weighing only 409g, others could too. When will they wake up to the harm they’re doing?
After the sustainably packaged trio, the order is in ascending order of price. Two Tavel rosés I really wanted to recommend, Domaine Maby La Forcadière (Yapp Brothers) and Arbousset rosé (Tesco), have fallen by the wayside because they have moved on to 2022 from the 2021 vintage I tasted. I’m sure the new vintages will be worth a try. There’s also a lack of English rosés (my fault).
A score of 93 is equivalent to a gold medal; 89–92 is silver; 85–88 is bronze.
Whispering Angel 2022, Côtes de Provence, France
This was very tight-lipped when I tasted it at the beginning of the year, but has now relaxed into flowing, floral, red fruit and vanilla-patisserie aromas and apricot and red apple on the palate. Lemon, elegantly bitter grapefruit rind and salinity provide and structure and freshness. Another impressive, appealing Whispering Angel. 13%. 596g.
91
Widely available at £15.95–£19.99. Half bottles and magnums available from Majestic and Waitrose
Château d’Esclans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
Scented summer-garden nose with an inviting hint of juniper berry. Rich, pure fruit on the palate with discreet, toasted vanilla and oak, a silky texture and fine acidity. Elegantly shaped and well-balanced. Primarily Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) vinified in a combination of 600-litre oak barrels and stainless steel. 13.5%. 978g – ouch!
Château d’Esclans Les Clans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
Mainly free-run juice from 50-plus year old Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino) and Syrah, fermented and aged for 10 months, with bâtonnage, in 600-litre oak barrels (one and two year old). The oak is still quite pronounced on both nose and palate, but not so that it overwhelms the floral, apricot and raspberry fruit, the creamy, close-textured richness, citrus sweetness and core of acidity. It will be better in a year, but is already a serious fine wine when given time to breathe in the glass. A good match for lobster and rich seafood dishes, vitello tonnato and pork ragù with capers. 14%. 975g –ouch again!
Château d’Esclans Garrus 2021, Côtes de Provence, France
I tasted this at 8ºC and 12ºC and then drank it at 12º+C. By all means serve it cooler if you like, but the higher temperature allows this young, tightly wound, oak-fermented and matured rosé to uncoil and express itself. And you’ll want to let it do that because it’s an exceptional wine: reminiscent of white Burgundy in its hazelnut and mineral aromas, buttery taste and silky texture, but with added orange pomander, exotic spice and incense. It’s intense, complex, powerful and balanced with an impeccable interplay of fruit, acidity and oak. Designed to go with food – lobster, salmon, pork, veal, lamb chops, savoury dishes in cream sauce and so on. Drink from now to 2033, if stored in cellar conditions. 14.5%. 979g – and ouch yet again!
A friend of ours brought this attractive bottle with a very jolly roaring twenties label and we were excited to sample the contents. The name Sacha Lichine may be familiar to you if you are a wine enthusiast. I feel he knows how to make a memorable rosé that is worthy of respect.
This rosé was fascinating to sample. My sensory experience was misled at first because when I first breathed in the scent I thought this was going to be fresher and sharper than I had hoped. But as soon as the flavours landed on my tongue the fruit was delivered, and for me a very enjoyable mix of flavours. I am so grateful when I detect some citrus in a wine, and the pink grapefruit reassured me that this was my kind of wine. But there was plenty to delight a sweet tooth – notably peach. But Robert suggested there was a cherry blossom aroma in his glass and he was picking up a teasing but delicate combination of both fruity and floral notes.
We both noted how creamy a finish this rosé has, making it such a pleasure to drink. It is not syrupy, it is not caustic. There is so much grace in this pretty rosé and I will without doubt be recommending it to friends. I feel as if this rosé has somehow managed to elegantly blend freshness, fruitiness, floral fragrance and creaminess – which surely is no easy task. Both of us were exceedingly delighted with The Pale Rosé.
Whispering Angel, the Côtes-de-Provence French rosé wine, invites you to toast the arrival of summer at Tigerlily, Edinburgh with a takeover that delivers serious World of Whisper wows.
Whispering Angel, the Côtes-de-Provence French rosé wine responsible for igniting the Rosé Renaissance worldwide, invites you to toast the arrival of summer at Tigerlily, Edinburgh with a takeover that delivers serious World of Whisper wows.
Synonymous with the most captivating alfresco destinations across the globe, the wildly popular rosé wine has launched its Whispering Angel summer takeover, located in the heart of the capital’s stylish George Street, and in place until the end of August.
Created by Chateau d’Esclans, a magical property and one of the grandest Chateaus in all of Provence, Whispering Angel is inviting rosé lovers to experience the Tigerlily takeover. These experiences include a hot-ticket five-course Chateau d’Esclans Pairing Dinner on Thursday the 3rd of August hosted by Kelly Stevenson – Chateau d’Esclans Brand Ambassador, priced at £75.
For the first time in Scotland, Whispering Angel fans have the opportunity to enjoy a delicious Chateau d’Esclans wine flight at Tigerlily for £25 featuring three 125ml rosés from the renowned vineyard:
• The Pale by Whispering Angel (expressive with great aromatic freshness and a fruit forward palate). • Whispering Angel (fresh red berry fruit characteristics with a floral nose, a dry and smooth wine). • Rock Angel (a more complex and structured taste profile than Whispering Angel, giving rosé lovers a bigger and richer wine. Floral and spicy notes with a creamy, rich finish).
Oozing a glamorous, playful spirit reminiscent of Saint-Tropez, the Whispering Angel takeover sees Tigerlily’s outdoor terrace on George Street transformed into a picture-perfect summer scene. Set within a white picket fence and accessed through arches dressed with wild, natural roses, the terrace is dressed with trailing ivy, fresh hydrangeas and oh-so-Provence lavender. Day into night, the Whispering Angel terrace at Tigerlily will be Edinburgh’s hottest destination this summer…and an incomparable spot for people watching in the sunshine.
Elsewhere, a burst of beautiful pink floral and lush greenery greets guests as they ascend the steps into Tigerlily, with the entrance transformed into the world of Whispering Angel. Taking centre stage inside the entrance is a Whispering Angel swing seat, with luxe velvet cushions and silky tassels; a playful spot for a spontaneous selfie opportunity.
Bringing the outdoors in further, the Whispering Angel takeover sees Tigerlily’s green room dramatically reimagined into a summer rose garden, with rose bushes flowing wilding across oversized curved mirrors, greenery and stems dramatically suspended and draped, and shimmering lights offsetting the installation to stunning effect.
To celebrate the launch of the takeover, Tigerlily is offering two further decadent experiences in addition to the Chateau d’Esclans wine flight and the Whispering Angel dinner. They are:
Whispering Angel Afternoon Tea with a 175ml glass of Whispering Angel, at £30.95 per person and Whispering Angel Brunch with a half bottle of Whispering Angel at £49.95 per person.
The world of whisper awaits at Tigerlily. Join us.
To help celebrate the summer season at none other than the Giorgio Armani Hurlingham Tennis Classic, we are delighted to offer you the chance to win a Jeroboam (3L) of Whispering Angel Rosé.
All you have to do is submit the form below to be added into the prize draw.
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The 9 Best Wines to Drink on Your Yacht This Summer
The bottles you want when you’re having fun on the water.
By Mike Desimone and Jeff Jenssen
Whether you are out for the day on a friend’s boat or are enjoying summer in Nice or Cannes in your own floating home, it’s important to liven up the overwater party with a few special bottles of wine. If you’re hitting hotspots on land in the evenings your options are often limited, so it’s fun to combine a mix of easy-to-find bottles with under the radar selections when you’re back on board.
Bubbles add to the festive atmosphere of being on a boat, but that doesn’t mean you have to stick to the same Champagne brands you’ll find in every port. Think outside the box and seek out sparklers from other regions such as California or northern Italy. You are always going to have one lover of oaky Chardonnay on hand; however, offering a lighter, aromatic white as well will keep everyone happy. No yachting excursion, be it for a few hours or the whole season, is complete without at least one rosé (or two) from the Côtes de Provence in the south of France. And while hot days on the water call for well-chilled whites, rosés, and bubbles, when the sun dips below the horizon and your sun-kissed skin begins to cool down, a couple of red wine choices will be appreciated by all, either poured on their own after time ashore or alongside an elegant alfresco dinner on the open deck.
Here are three bottles of bubbles, two whites, two rosés, and two reds to look out for the next time you are stocking up for some time on a yacht.
This ever-so-pale-pink rosé is a blend of Grenache, Vermentino, and Syrah and is made mostly from free run juice with no maceration. It is aged in 600-liter barrels for about ten months and undergoes battonage, or stirring of the lees, twice a week. It was first made by Sacha Lichine in 2006 and this 2019 is drinking perfectly right now, especially from a three-liter double magnum bottle, which is the perfect size to share with friends on your yacht. It has aromas of strawberry, orange peel, and grapefruit pith. It is full bodied with elegant mouthfeel and flavors of red fruits, citrus blossom, and a touch of white pepper in the finish. Available in 750 ml, 1.5 liter, or 3-liter format.
At Breezy Four Seasons Affair, CityBook Goes Poolside with ‘Coolest’ People in Houston
City Book Editors
Ryan Barbles, Casey Barbles, Kate McCarthy, Sasha Grumman (photo by Sarah De La Rosa)
A FABULOUSLY DIVERSE and accomplished crowd of influencers, VIPs, culture vultures and society swells gathered on the pool deck of Four Seasons Hotel Houston to celebrate Houston CityBook’s first ever “Cool 100” list.
Sponsors and cohosts included The Post Collection, which brought a two-toned orange and black Bentley to show off at valet as guests arrived, and Insólito Tequila, which provided spirits for the breezy summer evening’s featured Paloma cocktails. Château d’Esclans poured delicious rosés, including its Whispering Angel and The Beach.
Flirty Fashion & Fabulous Cosmetics: Kittenish By Jessie James Decker Shines At PARAISO Miami Swim Week
By Brooke Klaiman
Photo Credit: Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Kittenish
When you feel confident and beautiful on the outside, it helps your inner beauty shine through. Kittenish, founded in 2014 by the multi-talented Jessie James Decker, approaches fashion with a focus on blending flirty femininity with a hint of sass. But it’s more than just appearance – Kittenish represents a contagious mindset you can’t help but embrace.
This year at PARAISO Miami Swim Week, guests had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the essence of Kittenish and embody its spirit with style and grace. The show drew inspiration from Decker’s love for European aesthetics combined with her identity as a southern babe, resulting in her best swim collection to date. The collection showcased romantic shades of red, vibrant greens, and a mix of warm neutrals, with added hints of Mediterranean prints, animal-inspired prints, and textured fabrics, all infused with that flirty Kittenish touch.
The success of the evening was made possible by the support of sponsor partners such as Zooz Group, Virgin Voyages, and AminoLean Energy Drink, whose contributions promoted and enhanced one of Swim Fashion Week’s most highly anticipated events. The excitement carried over to the exclusive after-party held at The Miami Edition hotel’s Tropicale, where guests indulged in specialty drinks courtesy of Blue Ice Vodka, Mijenta Tequila, and Whispering Angel Rosé wine. It was an evening filled with fun, flirtation, and vibrant energy.
Having a sustainable focus is as important for big winemakers as it is for the family-run operations as climate change continues to have an impact on vineyards. Whispering Angel, the brand that helped drive the rosé renaissance’, celebrates its 17th vintage, but 2022 was a challenging year as the growing season yielded small berries with an average weight drop of 25%. This was expected, following a scorching summer. However, because of their commitment to long-term, meticulous vineyard management, it was an untroubled vintage. This can be experienced in the glass, as refreshing strawberry, raspberry and grapefruit flavours make a delicate rosé which has a beautiful crisp, clean finish…
