The French have swapped their red wine for rosé – it feels unseasonal and wrong

They’re drinking it all year round but like putting pumpkins outside your home in April or singing Christmas carols in August, it’s unseemly

By Celia Walden

Are the French having some kind of identity crisis? I only ask because if there are two areas they’re expert in – world leaders, even – it’s surely sex and wine. Yet yesterday we heard two bombshell news reports. First, that our Gallic cousins were turning to crude and clumsy Brits (and our hit TV series, Sex Education) for help in teaching youngsters about everything from flirting and consent to foreplay and nude selfies – and second, that with red wine sales in France now plummeting, rosé had become the French tipple of choice. They’re even drinking it in winter.

Rosé. A few years ago, just the word would have given me a tingle of excitement, conjuring up, as it did, everything lovely: the promise of summer, of long lunches, of tipsy nights, pretty dresses, flirting, clinking ice cubes, laughter.

I’m not sure I would have got through the pandemic without Whispering Angel, which became such a social fixture in my friendship group that it eventually had its own emoji. But you can have too much of a good thing, as it turns out, and last year, as summer turned into autumn and then winter, I remember thinking: “Why are people still drinking rosé?”

Like decking out the front of your house with pumpkins in April or singing Christmas carols in August, it felt wrong on an intrinsic level. And maybe that would have been enough to kill it for me, even without the rise of the Rosé Movement. Because suddenly, this innocent, far-too-easy-to-drink wine had become the avocado of the booze world.

You couldn’t scroll through Instagram without seeing a dozen, giggly girls in cute, cropped ‘La Vie En Rosé’ T-shirts or ‘Rosé All Day’ straw hats (full disclosure, I once had one). A raft of female celebrities – Kylie, Drew Barrymore, Sarah Jessica Parker – got into the rosé wine game, endlessly touting their wares, only a lot of it wasn’t from the gorgeous, peachy side of the family, but Côte de Provence’s brash, saccharine cousin: blush.

Once upon a time you couldn’t even order rosé in France – where it was dismissed as a “swimming pool drink” – out of season. Trying to do so would get you the same ferocious response as ordering your steak “well done”. It was all part of a national battle, waged daily, against vulgarity. So what on earth has happened?

The youth. That’s what. According to independent winemaker, Thomas Montagne, people, “especially the young” have ditched their traditional reds for “something easier to drink, [that] contains fewer tannins and feels more festive.”

I like to think that me going off rosé is a good sign: part of my evolutionary process. That I’m naturally going to mature into the kind of person who only drinks red wine and espressos and prefers the BBC World Service to LBC. Because with tastes, as with everything, you have to be aspirational – and surely the French have always understood that?

Martin Göschel: Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad

The summer is extended: Côte d’Azur cuisine on the Eggli. Oysters, Lobster, Prawns & Jellyfish.

By Patricia Heller

KING CRAB & EGGLI CEVICHE. From August 23rd to 27th it is particularly beautiful in the spacious, new Berghaus above Gstaad: “Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad” is the motto. The kitchen crew is getting reinforcements. Martin Göschel (“The Alpina”, 18 points, one star) directs, and the menu is tempting: Oysters Fin de Claire, lobster tails, king crabs, plus baguette and sauce rouille. Artichokes à la provençale, “Eggli” ceviche or a saffron risotto are also on the menu.

PRETTY IN PINK. What do you drink with Côte d’Azur cuisine? «Whispering Angel» from the French winery Château d’Esclans. This rosé has achieved success in its homeland and cult status in the United States; it fits in with the pretty-in-pink movement. More importantly, it tastes great! The Gstaad food truck also has a strong presence on the Eggli: beach snacks are sold, and DJ Guy Macquart spins on the roof of the former snow groomer. The way up to the Eggli (1500 m)? Five minutes ride with the modern gondola lift. Porsche Design.

Photos: Marcus Gyger, HO

www.gstaad.ch

Chilling by the pool: Nikki Beach Ibiza

The best spots on Ibiza to sip cocktails and build your tan.

By Lissy Lubeck

Located on the upper east coast of the island, Nikki Beach Ibiza can be considered somewhat of a hidden gem to the tourists who frequent the resorts of San Antonio and Playa d’en Bossa. But it shouldn’t be. It’s rare that I venture to this end of the island myself. When I do, I am reminded of the beauty it holds. I spent the day at this stunning beach resort on Monday, soaking it all up on one of their gorgeous poolside sun loungers.

Nestled within a low key, stunning cove of refreshing blue aguas and dreamy yachts, I was in awe from the moment I stepped foot into the Nikki Beach premises.

As my maiden visit, I was intrigued to see how it compared to other beach clubs in Ibiza, as I’d heard it’s the perfect sweet spot between chilled out relaxation and the fun-loving vibes found elsewhere.

Greeted by a host of gorgeous looking ladies at reception, my friends and I were guided to our bed for the day, which came with its own sofa, umbrella and table. I immediately fell into a state of zen, as the poolside DJ played chilled out sexy sounds and the Mediterranean sea glistened in the background.  

Throughout the day, we moved between our heavenly sun lounger, the pool and sea, then paid the Nikki Beach restaurant a visit for lunch. We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect Monday.

The girls couldn’t quite believe that this is what I do for a living, this being a pinch me moment on their holiday!

We indulged in a range of delicious cocktails and a generously gifted on-the-house bottle of Whispering Angel rosé wine, not to mention an incredible platter of fruit and mini desserts they had put together. 

There’s no need to lift a muscle at Nikki, as the hostesses are super attentive and fulfilled our needs twofold.

From making sure we were constantly topped up with refreshments and going out of their way to check in on us throughout the afternoon, their hard work and attention to detail doesn’t go unnoticed.

Whether you’re looking for a bit of daytime fun with your pals, a place to boogie and indulge in a mega-sized bottle of wine or simply relax the day away and read a book, Nikki Beach is the perfect place to do so.

It’s safe to say that I will be making a return before the end of summer, that’s a given.

Fruity and dry: These 5 rosé wines are perfect for summer

By Mario Mirschberger

From very pale rosé to a strong bright red: rosé wine comes in a wide variety of colors and with a wide variety of aromas. Its taste is apparently a universal weapon on the wine market, because everyone can now agree on rosé wine. The best season for a cold glass of rosé wine is clearly midsummer. In the evening under the open sky, well chilled – these are those summer moments that you want to create right now. However, in order for the rosé wine to taste good, you should not just buy just any wine. We looked around for the five best rosé wines of the summer and found everything : from well-designed bottles to sustainable concepts to honest craftsmanship.

1. Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel 2022

Rosé wine Château d’esclans Whispering Angel 2022, 0.75 liters, approx. 20 euros.

You’ve probably come across the name Whispering Angel in connection with rosé wine . This is probably because this wine is no longer an insider tip , but is probably one of the best-known and most popular rosé wines in the world. A rosé list without Whispering Angel from the Provençal Château D’Escalns is therefore almost impossible. The aromas contrast in color with the wine: watermelon and pomegranate, a pale pink in the glass . Whispering Angel is a light yet confident wine that has its own and distinctive character. 

Château d’Esclans & Chef Daniel Boulud Are Bringing The South of France To New York & Miami Again

By Stephanie DiGuiseppe

Experiencing the true rose lifestyle of the French Riviera is being made possible this summer without the use of your passports. Château d’Esclans, a magical winery situated in the heart of Provence, has teamed up with Chef Daniel Boulud for their second summer of “Boulud Sur Mer,” which promises to transport guests to the South of France while dining at Boulud’s restaurants.

From now until September 3rd, guests can expect to experience the luxury of the Riviera at various locations in the U.S., including New York City, Palm Beach, and Miami. “Like so many people, I would love to be able to spend my summer on the French Riviera,” says Chef Boulud. “Boulud Sur Mer is a wonderful opportunity for me to bring a little piece of that Rivera lifestyle to my restaurants in New York City, Floria, and around the world. It is a pleasure to once again partner with Château d’Esclans to bring the exceptional cuisine and wine of the South of France to our guests worldwide.” 

At each location, guests can enjoy a meticulously composed meal paired with a refreshing glass of rosé in an atmosphere that pays homage to the region from which Chef Boulud hails and where the award-winning wines from the Château d’Esclans are produced. Chef Daniel has curated a special Provencal style menu to pair perfectly with the wines, which will be featured both by the glass and by the bottle on the specially curated menu. Each dish will be composed of traditional ingredients from the region, and guests will have the chance to experience the flavors, sights, and smells of the Cote d’Azur. 

“We are honored to continue our partnership for another season with Chef Daniel Boulud and his culinary team for Boulud Sur Mer,” says Sacha Lichine, Founder and President of Château d’Esclans. “We’re thrilled to continue to bring the rosé lifestyle to these prestigious establishments so that all can experience the true essence of the South of France.” 

The following locations will feature Boulud’s Provencal menu paired with exceptional rosés from the Château d’Esclans wine portfolio, creating a true culinary and rosé journey. 

The Bar at DANIEL, located on 60 East 65th Street, New York, NY, is set to feature Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel, providing patrons with a taste of this exquisite rosé. Similarly, Le Pavillon on One Vanderbilt Avenue, and Le Gratin on 5 Beekman Street, both in New York, NY, will also delight guests with a selection that includes Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Les Clans. Additionally, Boulud Sud NYC on 20 West 64th Street, and Bar Boulud on 1900 Broadway, both situated in New York, NY, will showcase the Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel range, along with Rock Angel and Garrus, adding to the culinary experience. Furthermore, Épicerie Boulud, found on 1900 Broadway at 64th St and Westfield World Trade Center, New York, NY, will complete the offering with Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and The Beach by Whispering Angel. Wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike can now relish in the exquisite flavors of Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel wines while enjoying the finest cuisines that the city has to offer.

Then, in Miami, Boulud Sud MIA will feature Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Château d’Esclans Estate Wine, and in Palm Beach, the renowned Café Boulud Palm Beach will have the Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Rock Angel.

Decanter luxe list: Summer
A seasonal series collating luxury wine experiences taking place in the most coveted of cellars, vineyards and must-visit destinations across the globe.

By Lane Nieset

Spring always seems slow to start but summer approaches quickly bringing sunshine, outdoor dining and holidays aplenty.

Luckily, the summer season seems to be extending longer each year, giving us more time to soak up late sunsets and beachside bonfires sipping new releases and lauded vintages in some of the most stunning settings.

From Krug-fuelled pop-up dinner parties around the US to a brand-new Möet Hennessy four-floor cocktail experience in Paris, we’ve pulled together a list of haute happenings in the wine world sure to make this summer one of the best yet.

SIP CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS ROSÉ AT WINEMAKER DINNERS AND BEACHSIDE BONFIRES IN THE HAMPTONS

This summer, Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa in the Hamptons will host a trio of winemaker dinners paired alongside wine from Provence’s Château d’Esclans, the birthplace of Whispering Angel and Rock Angel.

Executive chef Christopher Watts will craft five, farm-fresh, seasonally-driven courses designed to pair with the iconic rosés, and the evening will end in true South of France style with a beachside bonfire. Upcoming dinners will take place July 21 and Sept. 1; $275 per person (tickets here).