Why pink wine is coming up rosé

Pamper yourself with one of the new generation of super luxurious pink wines

By David Williams

Château d’Esclans Garrus, Côtes de Provence 2021 (£120.50, clos19.com)
The irresistible rise of cult rosé estate Château d’Eslcans is one of the more remarkable stories in wine in recent years. When the man behind it, Sacha Lichine, the French-American son of the Russian émigré wine writer and Bordeaux estate proprietor Alexis Lichine, set up shop in Provence in 2006, his plan to make “fine” rosé looked to many like an act of folie de grandeur. Pink wine, after all, was seen as something pleasantly refreshing but essentially simple for sipping on hot summer days, a style that no serious oenophile could possibly compare to the best examples of red or white. Lichine’s top wine Garrus was the startling challenge to this conventional wisdom. Made from a mix of old-vine red grenache and the white vermentino using techniques more akin to the top white wines of Burgundy (it’s fermented and aged in oak rather than the stainless steel of most pink wine), its resistible price tag makes you want to hate it. But the latest, luxuriously silky, spicy-toasty vintage has a kind of graceful power that is intensely alluring.

The Beach by Whispering Angel, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France 2022 (from £16.50, Morrisons, Tesco, Waitrose, Majestic)

The audacious Garrus was the canny Lichine’s way of persuading wine critics to ditch their preconceptions about rosé and get them to talk about his nascent project. But the name which catapulted the estate to a level of fame that is exceptionally unusual for a wine brand was Whispering Angel. When I visited d’Esclans in September, its glitzy boutique was busy with impeccably dressed wealthy young things taking a break from their holidays on the nearby Côte d’Azur to make a pilgrimage to the home of Adele, Victoria Beckham and Malia Obama’s favourite wine. What is it about Whispering Angel that has made it such a rapid success, growing from about 130,000 bottles in its first vintage in 2006 to more than 1m 12-bottle cases today? A mix of astute marketing and good luck is part of the story; but tasting the latest 2022 vintage of both the main Whispering Angel (£20, widely available) and the, in my opinion, much better-value spin-off The Beach, I was struck by how effectively they deliver the soft-focus strawberry-and-cream, melon and gentle citrus freshness that is the hallmark of good Provence rosé.

Martin Göschel: Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad

The summer is extended: Côte d’Azur cuisine on the Eggli. Oysters, Lobster, Prawns & Jellyfish.

By Patricia Heller

KING CRAB & EGGLI CEVICHE. From August 23rd to 27th it is particularly beautiful in the spacious, new Berghaus above Gstaad: “Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad” is the motto. The kitchen crew is getting reinforcements. Martin Göschel (“The Alpina”, 18 points, one star) directs, and the menu is tempting: Oysters Fin de Claire, lobster tails, king crabs, plus baguette and sauce rouille. Artichokes à la provençale, “Eggli” ceviche or a saffron risotto are also on the menu.

Beach cuisine at Berghaus Eggli! Martin Göschel serves Côte d’Azur specialties.

PRETTY IN PINK. What do you drink with Côte d’Azur cuisine? «Whispering Angel» from the French winery Château d’Esclans. This rosé has achieved success in its homeland and cult status in the United States; it fits in with the pretty-in-pink movement. More importantly, it tastes great! The Gstaad food truck also has a strong presence on the Eggli: beach snacks are sold, and DJ Guy Macquart spins on the roof of the former snow groomer. The way up to the Eggli (1500 m)? Five minutes ride with the modern gondola lift. Porsche Design.

Photos: Marcus Gyger, HO

www.gstaad.ch

Chilling by the pool: Nikki Beach Ibiza

The best spots on Ibiza to sip cocktails and build your tan.

By Lissy Lubeck

Located on the upper east coast of the island, Nikki Beach Ibiza can be considered somewhat of a hidden gem to the tourists who frequent the resorts of San Antonio and Playa d’en Bossa. But it shouldn’t be. It’s rare that I venture to this end of the island myself. When I do, I am reminded of the beauty it holds. I spent the day at this stunning beach resort on Monday, soaking it all up on one of their gorgeous poolside sun loungers.

Nestled within a low key, stunning cove of refreshing blue aguas and dreamy yachts, I was in awe from the moment I stepped foot into the Nikki Beach premises.

As my maiden visit, I was intrigued to see how it compared to other beach clubs in Ibiza, as I’d heard it’s the perfect sweet spot between chilled out relaxation and the fun-loving vibes found elsewhere.

Greeted by a host of gorgeous looking ladies at reception, my friends and I were guided to our bed for the day, which came with its own sofa, umbrella and table. I immediately fell into a state of zen, as the poolside DJ played chilled out sexy sounds and the Mediterranean sea glistened in the background.  

Throughout the day, we moved between our heavenly sun lounger, the pool and sea, then paid the Nikki Beach restaurant a visit for lunch. We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect Monday.

The girls couldn’t quite believe that this is what I do for a living, this being a pinch me moment on their holiday!

We indulged in a range of delicious cocktails and a generously gifted on-the-house bottle of Whispering Angel rosé wine, not to mention an incredible platter of fruit and mini desserts they had put together. 

There’s no need to lift a muscle at Nikki, as the hostesses are super attentive and fulfilled our needs twofold.

From making sure we were constantly topped up with refreshments and going out of their way to check in on us throughout the afternoon, their hard work and attention to detail doesn’t go unnoticed.

Whether you’re looking for a bit of daytime fun with your pals, a place to boogie and indulge in a mega-sized bottle of wine or simply relax the day away and read a book, Nikki Beach is the perfect place to do so.

It’s safe to say that I will be making a return before the end of summer, that’s a given.

20 Most Popular Rosé Wines to Try

Indulge in the world of exquisite rosé wines, where delicate hues meet captivating flavors.

By Paul Kushnera

In this exploration of the finest rosés, we delve into the artistry and craftsmanship that elevate this elegant varietal.

From sun-kissed vineyards to expert vintners, our journey uncovers the nuanced profiles and timeless appeal of rosé wines

Discover the allure of blush-tinted elixirs that dance on the palate, offering a symphony of notes that range from fruity to floral

Join us as we navigate the vineyards, uncork the stories, and celebrate the allure of these cherished pink libations.

Château d’Esclans Les Clans

Within the realm of exquisite rosé wines, Château d’Esclans Les Clans emerges as a true gem. 

Embodying the epitome of elegance, this rosé offers a sensory journey that encapsulates the essence of Provence. 

Its pale, ethereal hue entices the eye, while the palate is graced with layers of red fruit and subtle florals. 

Les Clans stands as a testament to the art of rosé, an embodiment of the passion and expertise that define the finest in pink wine craftsmanship.

This rosé enchants the palate with its refreshing crispness and subtle minerality, making it an ideal companion for warm gatherings or leisurely afternoons. 

Whispering Angel Rosé

Whispering Angel Rosé is a symphony of flavors that transports the senses to the sun-soaked vineyards of Provence. 

Delicate aromas of red berries and white blossoms entice the nose, while the palate revels in notes of ripe peach and citrus. 

Its crisp acidity and smooth finish make it a versatile companion for any occasion, from leisurely lunches to glamorous soirées. 

Embark on a journey of elegance with Whispering Angel Rosé, where every sip whispers tales of indulgence.

I have always had a deep interest in the restaurant and bar industry. My restaurant experience began in 1997 at the age of 14 as a bus boy. By the time I turned 17 I was serving tables, and by 19 I was bartending/bar managing 6-7 nights a week.

In 2012, after a decade and a half of learning all facets of the industry, I opened my first restaurant/bar. In 2015, a second location followed, the latter being featured on The Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Richly Flavored Rosé

By Corey Warren

Château d’Esclans in southern France’s Côtes de Provence. (Photo courtesy of the winery)

Bertrand Léon sends free-run juice into 600-liter demi-muids for 11 months, stirring the lees twice a week. That translates into an undercurrent of richness to the already-rich piecrust and grapefruit-pith flavors. The intensity of its flavors should gain more clarity with time, and the wine has the structure to age.

91

Château d’Esclans 2021 Côtes de Provence Les Clans

$85

Every week, our editors highlight a wine that intrigued them in our blind panel tastings, expanding on their tasting note in this space. These are entirely editorial choices; there are no paid placements. Subscribers can also access the original tasting note by searching here.

Fruity and dry: These 5 rosé wines are perfect for summer

By Mario Mirschberger

From very pale rosé to a strong bright red: rosé wine comes in a wide variety of colors and with a wide variety of aromas. Its taste is apparently a universal weapon on the wine market, because everyone can now agree on rosé wine. The best season for a cold glass of rosé wine is clearly midsummer. In the evening under the open sky, well chilled – these are those summer moments that you want to create right now. However, in order for the rosé wine to taste good, you should not just buy just any wine. We looked around for the five best rosé wines of the summer and found everything : from well-designed bottles to sustainable concepts to honest craftsmanship.

1. Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel 2022

Rosé wine Château d’esclans Whispering Angel 2022, 0.75 liters, approx. 20 euros.

You’ve probably come across the name Whispering Angel in connection with rosé wine . This is probably because this wine is no longer an insider tip , but is probably one of the best-known and most popular rosé wines in the world. A rosé list without Whispering Angel from the Provençal Château D’Escalns is therefore almost impossible. The aromas contrast in color with the wine: watermelon and pomegranate, a pale pink in the glass . Whispering Angel is a light yet confident wine that has its own and distinctive character. 

Château d’Esclans & Chef Daniel Boulud Are Bringing The South of France To New York & Miami Again

By Stephanie DiGuiseppe

Experiencing the true rose lifestyle of the French Riviera is being made possible this summer without the use of your passports. Château d’Esclans, a magical winery situated in the heart of Provence, has teamed up with Chef Daniel Boulud for their second summer of “Boulud Sur Mer,” which promises to transport guests to the South of France while dining at Boulud’s restaurants.

From now until September 3rd, guests can expect to experience the luxury of the Riviera at various locations in the U.S., including New York City, Palm Beach, and Miami. “Like so many people, I would love to be able to spend my summer on the French Riviera,” says Chef Boulud. “Boulud Sur Mer is a wonderful opportunity for me to bring a little piece of that Rivera lifestyle to my restaurants in New York City, Floria, and around the world. It is a pleasure to once again partner with Château d’Esclans to bring the exceptional cuisine and wine of the South of France to our guests worldwide.” 

At each location, guests can enjoy a meticulously composed meal paired with a refreshing glass of rosé in an atmosphere that pays homage to the region from which Chef Boulud hails and where the award-winning wines from the Château d’Esclans are produced. Chef Daniel has curated a special Provencal style menu to pair perfectly with the wines, which will be featured both by the glass and by the bottle on the specially curated menu. Each dish will be composed of traditional ingredients from the region, and guests will have the chance to experience the flavors, sights, and smells of the Cote d’Azur. 

“We are honored to continue our partnership for another season with Chef Daniel Boulud and his culinary team for Boulud Sur Mer,” says Sacha Lichine, Founder and President of Château d’Esclans. “We’re thrilled to continue to bring the rosé lifestyle to these prestigious establishments so that all can experience the true essence of the South of France.” 

The following locations will feature Boulud’s Provencal menu paired with exceptional rosés from the Château d’Esclans wine portfolio, creating a true culinary and rosé journey. 

The Bar at DANIEL, located on 60 East 65th Street, New York, NY, is set to feature Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel, providing patrons with a taste of this exquisite rosé. Similarly, Le Pavillon on One Vanderbilt Avenue, and Le Gratin on 5 Beekman Street, both in New York, NY, will also delight guests with a selection that includes Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Les Clans. Additionally, Boulud Sud NYC on 20 West 64th Street, and Bar Boulud on 1900 Broadway, both situated in New York, NY, will showcase the Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel range, along with Rock Angel and Garrus, adding to the culinary experience. Furthermore, Épicerie Boulud, found on 1900 Broadway at 64th St and Westfield World Trade Center, New York, NY, will complete the offering with Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and The Beach by Whispering Angel. Wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike can now relish in the exquisite flavors of Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel wines while enjoying the finest cuisines that the city has to offer.

Then, in Miami, Boulud Sud MIA will feature Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Château d’Esclans Estate Wine, and in Palm Beach, the renowned Café Boulud Palm Beach will have the Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel and Rock Angel.

Decanter luxe list: Summer
A seasonal series collating luxury wine experiences taking place in the most coveted of cellars, vineyards and must-visit destinations across the globe.

By Lane Nieset

Chateau d’Esclans Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa Credit: Chateau d’Esclans

Spring always seems slow to start but summer approaches quickly bringing sunshine, outdoor dining and holidays aplenty.

Luckily, the summer season seems to be extending longer each year, giving us more time to soak up late sunsets and beachside bonfires sipping new releases and lauded vintages in some of the most stunning settings.

From Krug-fuelled pop-up dinner parties around the US to a brand-new Möet Hennessy four-floor cocktail experience in Paris, we’ve pulled together a list of haute happenings in the wine world sure to make this summer one of the best yet.

SIP CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS ROSÉ AT WINEMAKER DINNERS AND BEACHSIDE BONFIRES IN THE HAMPTONS

This summer, Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa in the Hamptons will host a trio of winemaker dinners paired alongside wine from Provence’s Château d’Esclans, the birthplace of Whispering Angel and Rock Angel.

Executive chef Christopher Watts will craft five, farm-fresh, seasonally-driven courses designed to pair with the iconic rosés, and the evening will end in true South of France style with a beachside bonfire. Upcoming dinners will take place July 21 and Sept. 1; $275 per person (tickets here).

Chateau d’Esclans x Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa. Credit: Chateau d’Esclans

Maternal Love: the inspiration for the third edition of chiles en nogada at Carmela & Sal, Chef Gaby Ruiz’s restaurant

By Eugenia Revoreda

Chef Gaby Ruiz ‘s Carmela & Sal restaurant presents its third edition of Chiles en nogada —one of the emblematic dishes of the gastronomy of Puebla and Mexico—, inspired by maternal love and whose pairing can be made with wines from the high-end house Château D’Esclans by Moët Hennessy.

Her gaze reflects it deeply: the emotion with which chef Gaby Ruiz Lugo formally presented the third season of Chiles en Nogada at Carmela & Sal , has a very powerful reason for being, and that is that she announced that she is pregnant and before this event “everything in her life has turned pink”.

The tasting menu: the perfect combination of ingredients, flavors and seasons

Green oil with peas and green beans
Pairing: rosé wine ‘Whispering Angel’

The herbal and very fresh flavors stood out in the first part of the menu that chef Gaby Ruiz prepared to accompany the dish of this third edition of the Chiles en nogada from Carmela & Sal .

The flavor of the fresh and seasonal peas, in conjunction with the green oil and the green beans, mixed to give way to a bed of crunchy, unctuous, light and very fresh textures that combined in harmony with the dry and soft taste profile of the rosé wine and notes on the nose of red fruits and flowers, the Whispering Angel rosé wine from the the Côtes de Provence region, in France.

Prime Time for Pink: Rosés for Summer 2023

Rosé is an all year round wine, but everyone knows that rosés become more irresistible in summer. So, glasses at the ready for this year’s seasonal round-up of new wines and new vintages.

To repeat a few things I said last year: rosés aren’t only for the aperitif or poolside slots. They often make very good food wines, not least with the sort of dishes you might be having in warm weather – grilled and barbecued fish, seafood, charcuterie, salads, vegetable tarts, chicken dishes, pasta and picnic fare.

All wines need to be kept out of sunlight to avoid spoilage by light strike (does what it says on the tin) but rosés are often more vulnerable, above all when they’re in clear glass bottles. Ideally, we’d have dark, opaque wine glasses, but that’s a step too far.

Pink wines should be served chilled and then kept cold while you make further inroads into the bottle, box or pouch. Wine cooler sleeves kept in the freezer or ice box are invaluable for bottles. Chilling your glass by swirling a couple of ice cubes round it before you start is another good move when the sun is beating down. If your wine does end up too warm, you can always resort to an ice cube lobbed into the liquid itself.

This year I’m kicking off my recommendations with three wines in sustainable packaging. These are all the more relevant and praiseworthy in the context of rosé when so many, especially from Provence, come in absurdly heavy glass bottles.

I’ve given empty bottle weights at the end of each tasting note when I have them – and I can tell you there are some shockers. I’m sorry to say that three of my top-scoring wines are the worst offenders by a long way. If Chanel (yes, that Chanel) can put its Domaine de L’Ile rosé, my other top scoring wine, in a bottle weighing only 409g, others could too. When will they wake up to the harm they’re doing?

After the sustainably packaged trio, the order is in ascending order of price. Two Tavel rosés I really wanted to recommend, Domaine Maby La Forcadière (Yapp Brothers) and Arbousset rosé (Tesco), have fallen by the wayside because they have moved on to 2022 from the 2021 vintage I tasted. I’m sure the new vintages will be worth a try. There’s also a lack of English rosés (my fault).

A score of 93 is equivalent to a gold medal; 89–92 is silver; 85–88 is bronze.

Whispering Angel 2022, Côtes de Provence, France

This was very tight-lipped when I tasted it at the beginning of the year, but has now relaxed into flowing, floral, red fruit and vanilla-patisserie aromas and apricot and red apple on the palate. Lemon, elegantly bitter grapefruit rind and salinity provide and structure and freshness. Another impressive, appealing Whispering Angel. 13%. 596g.

91

Widely available at £15.95–£19.99. Half bottles and magnums available from Majestic and Waitrose

 

Château d’Esclans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France

 

Scented summer-garden nose with an inviting hint of juniper berry. Rich, pure fruit on the palate with discreet, toasted vanilla and oak, a silky texture and fine acidity. Elegantly shaped and well-balanced. Primarily Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) vinified in a combination of 600-litre oak barrels and stainless steel. 13.5%. 978g – ouch!

91.5

 

£44.95, Cellar Door Wines; £49.99; Harrogate Wines; £52.80, Hedonism

Château d’Esclans Les Clans 2021, Côtes de Provence, France

 

Mainly free-run juice from 50-plus year old Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino) and Syrah, fermented and aged for 10 months, with bâtonnage, in 600-litre oak barrels (one and two year old). The oak is still quite pronounced on both nose and palate, but not so that it overwhelms the floral, apricot and raspberry fruit, the creamy, close-textured richness, citrus sweetness and core of acidity. It will be better in a year, but is already a serious fine wine when given time to breathe in the glass. A good match for lobster and rich seafood dishes, vitello tonnato and pork ragù with capers. 14%. 975g –ouch again!

93

 

£69.95, Cellar Door Wines; £70.80, Hedonism; £79, Fraziers Wine Merchants, £88, Tannico UK

Château d’Esclans Garrus 2021, Côtes de Provence, France

 

I tasted this at 8ºC and 12ºC and then drank it at 12º+C. By all means serve it cooler if you like, but the higher temperature allows this young, tightly wound, oak-fermented and matured rosé to uncoil and express itself. And you’ll want to let it do that because it’s an exceptional wine: reminiscent of white Burgundy in its hazelnut and mineral aromas, buttery taste and silky texture, but with added orange pomander, exotic spice and incense. It’s intense, complex, powerful and balanced with an impeccable interplay of fruit, acidity and oak. Designed to go with food – lobster, salmon, pork, veal, lamb chops, savoury dishes in cream sauce and so on. Drink from now to 2033, if stored in cellar conditions. 14.5%. 979g – and ouch yet again!

95

 

£99.90, Vinatis UK; £119 (in any 6-bottle mix), Majestic; £120, Clos19; £124.95, Master or Malt; £125, Woodwinters; £125, Cellar Door Wines; £129.95, Secret Bottle Shop; £160, Hedonism; see wine-searcher.com for more stockists.