NO RISK NO FUN – SACHA LICHINE ON FINE ROSÉ WINES

By Darren McCabe Food & Drink

Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans & GARRUS Vertical Tasting

On Friday, March 7th, I had the pleasure of joining Sacha Lichine, the visionary founder of Château d’Esclans, for a delightful lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair. The highlight of the afternoon was a vertical tasting of the exquisite Les Clans and Garrus fine wines, held in the elegant surroundings of Annabel’s. 

A Haven of Tranquil Elegance

Located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, Annabel’s is renowned as one of the world’s most prestigious private members’ clubs. Established in 1963, it has long been a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. In 2018, Annabel’s underwent a stunning transformation, moving to 46 Berkeley Square and receiving a lavish redesign by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The redesign beautifully preserved the building’s historic features, including its grand staircase, intricate plaster ceilings, and elegant fireplaces.

Our tasting took place in the haven of tranquil elegance known as The Silver Room. Overlooking the enchanting garden this room is adorned with original Georgian features, meticulously restored with silver detailing. The bespoke silver glass panels depict classical figures, creating a sophisticated and serene atmosphere. Designed for private events, the Silver Room made it perfect setting for this intimate lunch.

The visionary

Sacha Lichine, a visionary in the wine industry, has against all the odds, transformed Château d’Esclans into a symbol of excellence in Provence. Born in Bordeaux and educated in America, Sacha has immersed himself in every facet of the wine business, from production to sales. His early experiences at his family’s former estates, Château Prieuré Lichine and Château Lascombes, provided him with a solid foundation in winemaking and the wine trade.

In 2006, Sacha left Bordeaux and acquired Château d’Esclans, located in the picturesque hills northeast of St. Tropez.  With a bold vision to create the world’s finest rosés, he spearheaded what is now known as the ‘Rosé Renaissance’.  It was a huge risk, Sacha smiled as he shared, he’d just read the book ‘No Risk, No Fun’. Back then some people did think he was crazy, trading his family business in Bordeaux to make Rose in Provence, “Bankers wouldn’t give me an overdraft, and the trade would say ‘rosé doesn’t sell’.  Sacha explained that when building a brand you need to have three or four layers, price points and therefore the fine wines are accompanied by the world famous Whispering Angel, now selling over £10m bottles worldwide (up from 130,000) along with Rock Angel, “a kind of Super Whispering”, and Chateau D’Esclans.  We were keen to know where he got the ideas for their names, “Whispering Angel, Rock Angel are names inspired by the chapel at the property, with cherubs above the altar and Garrus is the knoll, or plot in the hillside at the estate”.

Les Clans and Garrus: The Pinnacle of Fine Wines

Many people think of rosé as a simple, summer drink, best enjoyed in the sunshine and often consumed without much thought. However, it might be surprising to learn that rosé can have the complexity and longevity of fine wines. Les Clans and Garrus, in particular, defy these expectations with their remarkable depth and aging potential. We tasted through Les Clans and Garrus 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017. Both are exceptional examples of fine wines that challenge the conventional perceptions of rosé. All the grapes used are estate grown grapes, with Les Clans vines being 50-70 years old and Garrus being older.  The wines resemble a white at the beginning and finish as a red, a style they have been perfecting with the 2023 vintage.  

The colour can be deceiving to some, its light and pale, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it wouldn’t have much taste and body but it’s just to the contrary.  Whilst there is very little colour variation across these vintages Sacha’s focus is on “consistency of style rather than colour, seeking elegance in the ripe and well-grown Grenache”. The blend of Grenache and Rolle produces refined flavours, with Rolle adding richness. “A tad of Tibouren contributes a floral touch”, though Sacha is not a great fan of it.  He emphasised that” the wine must deserve the wood it ages in”. Experimentation with different barrels, woods, and coopers has led to wines that never taste of wood but offer an extra layer of complexity, making them linger on the palate. 

The 2023 vintage stands out as a remarkable year for both Les Clans and Garrus. This vintage represents a significant milestone in the history of Provence rosé, with all three Château d’Esclans wines achieving exceptional acclaim.  Garrus is characterised by its remarkable clarity and brightness, showcasing a refined structure and subtle notes of oak and almond. The wine’s elegance and composure are reminiscent of some of the finest Burgundian whites.  But “its tyring to be its own individual style, it might resemble white burgundy but has a style of its own, it tastes well”. Les Clans from 2023 is celebrated for its harmonious balance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for pairing with a wide range of dishes.

Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed all of them the 2020 vintage stood out as my favourite.  They have proven to be exceptional, demonstrating the potential for aging and the depth of flavour that can be achieved with meticulous winemaking. These wines are not only a delight to drink now but also promise to continue evolving beautifully in the years to come. 

Their ability to age gracefully is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative techniques employed in their production. These wines evolve beautifully over time, developing deeper flavours and greater complexity, making them ideal for aging.  “We’re not trying to change the world, what we’re trying to offer is that rose can be a fine wine if one wants it to be”. 

A race against oxidation

Sacha’s dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of the production process. From handpicking the grapes to experimenting with different barrels and woods, every detail is carefully considered. Harvesting is completed by lunchtime, using crates with dry ice and pellets to maintain the coolness of the grapes, preserving the fruit and flavour until the last moment.  With the help of a group of engineers from Bordeaux, his team has developed a state-of-the-art technology, including nitrogen gas to reduce oxidation and a glycol system with tentacles that chill inside the barrels. This innovation allows for controlled fermentation at different temperatures, making these wines possible today.  “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.” Garrus, comprising 90% free-run juice the wine is vinified in the whitest 600-litre barrels you will come across, new oak (20%), second-year oak (40%), and third-year oak (40%).  Renewing the barrels every three years undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period gives the wines a lovely blanched almond flavour, whilst building structure and depth.

The risk paid off

The 2025 vintage, set to be released in 2026, will mark the Chateau’s 20th vintage. The investment in Provence has grown reflecting the commitment to quality. The category is improving, and as it does, interest grows. 

The risk taken has paid off, with the wines now available in 110 countries.  50% of sales are in the US and 25% in the UK, with the rest of the world accounting for the final 25%.  Sacha hails the UK as being crucial for the fine wine market, and without it, there would be no such market. 

Conclusion

Sacha Lichine’s dedication to innovation and quality has brought Provence rosé to the global map. His wines, from Whispering Angel to Garrus, showcase the potential of rosé as a fine wine, driven by a vision of elegance and refinement.

Les Clans and Garrus are more than just rosé wines; they are masterpieces that showcase the potential of rosé as fine wine. Their age-worthiness and compatibility with food, combined with Sacha Lichine’s expertise and commitment to quality, make them truly exceptional. These wines are a testament to the fact that with the right knowledge and investment, rosé can achieve the same level of sophistication and elegance as the finest wines in the world.

Tour de France at Zornitza Family Estate Relais & Châteaux – an exquisite symphony of flavors and aromas

Chef Veselin Kalev (member of JRE Bulgaria and head chef of Zornitza Family Estate) together with Chef Annette Teisch

On the occasion of International Women’s Day on March 8, Zornitza Family Estate Relais & Châteaux reopened its doors for one of the most exquisite annual events in its calendar – the Tour de France. The event, inspired by the rich wine traditions of France, combined elegance, a gourmet experience and a sophisticated atmosphere at the aEstivum restaurant.

The evening was dedicated to the harmony between first-class French wines and culinary masterpieces prepared by the exceptional chef Annette Teisch – the first female chef in France to become a member of the JRE since the association’s establishment in 1974.

Chef Annette Teisch – the lady who rewrote the rules in cooking

Chef Annette Teisch is a true pioneer in the world of gastronomy. Born and raised in Paris, she began her culinary career in some of the most prestigious restaurants in France, where she honed her skills in classic French cuisine. Her style combines innovation and respect for tradition, with seasonal produce, premium meats and impeccable craftsmanship at the heart of her dishes. In 1974, she became the first woman to be a member of Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE), a prestigious organization that brings together the most innovative and talented young chefs from across Europe. Today, she is not only an inspiration for future generations of chefs, but also an ambassador for contemporary French gastronomy.

JRE – the organization that sets the gastronomic standard in Europe

Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE) is an international association founded in 1974, which brings together some of the most talented and ambitious chefs in Europe. The philosophy of JRE is simple – passion for cooking, respect for tradition and a drive for innovation. The organization connects restaurants and chefs who offer exceptional gastronomic experiences based on high-quality products, creativity and perfectionism. JRE members not only set new culinary trends, but are also committed to creating sustainable and authentic gourmet experiences.

Culinary journey through France

The estate’s sommelier, Alexander Skorchev, selected a special selection of five exceptional French wines, each of which was masterfully paired with the evening’s menu. Guests had the pleasure of enjoying the following culinary symphony:

Provence : Anchovy spring rolls, rice popcorn, licorice

2021 Rose Garrus (Grenache & Rolle), Château d’Esclans, France, Côtes de Provence

Cod, cabbage, katsuobushi, spring onion

Garrus 2022, the rosé not to be forgotten

By João Jacinto Ferreira

Considered the most iconic wine from Château d’Esclans, in the heart of French Provence, the Garrus 2022 rosé, made with Grenache and Vermentino (Rolle) grapes from a vineyard that is almost a hundred years old, will be released on the market in March. The Château d’Esclans estate, with 140 hectares of vineyards, was acquired in 2006 by Sacha Lichine, who immediately set out with the ambition of creating the best rosés in the world, thus beginning the “Renaissance du rosé” project.
Aged and fermented in large new French oak barrels for 11 months, the Garrus 2022 is a powerful and concentrated wine, firmly established as an iconic, world-class rosé. Complex yet surprisingly light, with a creamy finish and rich, spicy notes, it stands shoulder to shoulder with any top white wine or prestige Champagne.

On the nose, it is very pure. Extremely powerful, the olfactory notes express the entire personality of this wine. With a light and appealing color, on the palate it has an expressive acidity and a lightness that contrasts with its complexity. Rich and complex, Garrus 2022 has a good finish and good aging potential. A winning bet for your cellar.

Available in 75 cl, 1.5l and 3l bottles.

RRP:  €119.95 with box

Available at:  El Corte Inglés

About Château D’Esclans

The Château d’Esclans is located in the heart of Provence, northeast of Saint-Tropez, with the Mediterranean as its backdrop. This magical estate, whose vineyards cover 140 hectares of the rocky limestone slopes of the Esclans Valley, offers a bucolic setting. The château’s cellars, the oldest in the region, originally housed a medieval castle that was handed over by the Count of Provence to Gérard De Villeneuve in 1210. The current château, built in the 19th century, is inspired by the style of Tuscan villas. Sacha Lichine acquired the château in 2006 with the ambition of creating the world’s finest rosés, thus initiating the “renaissance du rosé”.

The 10 Best Rosé Wines to Enjoy in Summer and Year-Round

Rosé wines are fantastic for sipping poolside, pairing with food, and enjoying year-round. Discover the best rosé wines for any budget here.

By Kristen Shirley

In just over a decade, rosé wine went from an afterthought to one of the most popular types of wine in the world, especially in summer. Rosé wines from Provence — and similar styles produced around the world — account for the majority of the best rosé wines, but there are actually several styles of rosé wine. Some are very delicate, pale pink wines with light flavors of red fruit and citrus, while others are dark pink, robust, and complex wines. You can learn everything about the different styles of rosé and the production process in our ultimate guide to rosé wine. While rosé is most popular during summer, the best rosé wines are worth considering year-round. Rosé wines are easy to pair with food and are a safe choice on many wine lists. Read on to discover the best rosé wines in the world.


What Is the Most Popular Rosé Wine in the World?

Whispering Angel is one of the most popular rosé wines in the world. CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS
Château d’Esclans

Many credit today’s obsession with rosé wine to winemaker Sacha Lichine, the mastermind behind Whispering Angel, the rosé that started it all in 2006. While Whispering Angel is still a wonderful rosé, it’s been surpassed by ultrapremium rosés from other producers, as well as at Château d’Esclans. Now, Whispering Angel ($25) is a solid, affordable rosé found around the world. It is accompanied in the portfolio by The Beach by Whispering Angel ($18) and The Pale by Sacha Lichine ($15), two easy-drinking rosés, and Rock Angel ($35).
But, Lichine also expanded the estate to focus on premium rosés, including Les Clans ($95) and Garrus ($125). Both are full-bodied, complex rosés with aging potential. This makes them great for pairing with food, such as lobster pasta, sushi, and grilled fish. While many rosés have light flavors, these wines are intense and powerful but still refreshing. Les Clans has a tropical and spicy palate, with notes of pineapple, ginger, and black licorice alongside raspberries and strawberries.
Lichine treats Garrus more like a Cru Classé white Burgundy, a type of Chardonnay, than a Provençal rosé. It’s made from the grapes of a single vineyard with ancient vines that are nearly a century old. (The older a vine is, the more concentrated and flavorful the grapes are.) The maison ferments and ages the wine in new large French oak barrels instead of stainless steel or concrete, which adds complexity, flavor, and texture. Garrus has notes of citrus, pear, peach, pineapple, and passion fruit. The maison describes it as “vintage Champagne without the bubbles.”

今夏最好玩的桃紅色派對「柯夢波丹夏日海灘派對」你參加了嗎?美食市集、現場表演、絕美煙火秀有夠難忘!

錯過的人真的明年一定要報名來玩!

COSMO SUMMER PARTY

韓國京畿道

柯夢VIP包廂限定禮物:法國蝶伊絲柯蘭堡-天使絮語粉紅酒 Whispering Angel!

※未滿18歲請勿飲酒

Martin Göschel: Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad

The summer is extended: Côte d’Azur cuisine on the Eggli. Oysters, Lobster, Prawns & Jellyfish.

By Patricia Heller

KING CRAB & EGGLI CEVICHE. From August 23rd to 27th it is particularly beautiful in the spacious, new Berghaus above Gstaad: “Saint-Tropez on Eggli Gstaad” is the motto. The kitchen crew is getting reinforcements. Martin Göschel (“The Alpina”, 18 points, one star) directs, and the menu is tempting: Oysters Fin de Claire, lobster tails, king crabs, plus baguette and sauce rouille. Artichokes à la provençale, “Eggli” ceviche or a saffron risotto are also on the menu.

Beach cuisine at Berghaus Eggli! Martin Göschel serves Côte d’Azur specialties.

PRETTY IN PINK. What do you drink with Côte d’Azur cuisine? «Whispering Angel» from the French winery Château d’Esclans. This rosé has achieved success in its homeland and cult status in the United States; it fits in with the pretty-in-pink movement. More importantly, it tastes great! The Gstaad food truck also has a strong presence on the Eggli: beach snacks are sold, and DJ Guy Macquart spins on the roof of the former snow groomer. The way up to the Eggli (1500 m)? Five minutes ride with the modern gondola lift. Porsche Design.

Photos: Marcus Gyger, HO

www.gstaad.ch

Maternal Love: the inspiration for the third edition of chiles en nogada at Carmela & Sal, Chef Gaby Ruiz’s restaurant

By Eugenia Revoreda

Chef Gaby Ruiz ‘s Carmela & Sal restaurant presents its third edition of Chiles en nogada —one of the emblematic dishes of the gastronomy of Puebla and Mexico—, inspired by maternal love and whose pairing can be made with wines from the high-end house Château D’Esclans by Moët Hennessy.

Her gaze reflects it deeply: the emotion with which chef Gaby Ruiz Lugo formally presented the third season of Chiles en Nogada at Carmela & Sal , has a very powerful reason for being, and that is that she announced that she is pregnant and before this event “everything in her life has turned pink”.

The tasting menu: the perfect combination of ingredients, flavors and seasons

Green oil with peas and green beans
Pairing: rosé wine ‘Whispering Angel’

The herbal and very fresh flavors stood out in the first part of the menu that chef Gaby Ruiz prepared to accompany the dish of this third edition of the Chiles en nogada from Carmela & Sal .

The flavor of the fresh and seasonal peas, in conjunction with the green oil and the green beans, mixed to give way to a bed of crunchy, unctuous, light and very fresh textures that combined in harmony with the dry and soft taste profile of the rosé wine and notes on the nose of red fruits and flowers, the Whispering Angel rosé wine from the the Côtes de Provence region, in France.