Restaurant review: Sam’s Waterside, Brentford This place is so good that I now wish I lived in Brentford

By David Sefton

Fifteen or Twenty years ago, if I had suggested heading to Brentford, the only reason would have been to catch a Leeds United away match as the Bees and the Whites struggled in the lower fringes of the Championship with both making unwelcome forays into League One. Anyone else remember “Time to go, Massimo”? Makes me shudder.

There was certainly no other obvious reason to pierce the middle class firewall of Chiswick and head into a world of paper distributors and electric goods wholesalers shut off from the river by a long stretch of derelict or dilapidated buildings.

Yet here I am now in a warm, quietly luxurious, brasserie which overlooks the Thames as it flows through Brentford, surrounded by the sort of luxury new waterside developments you expect to find further downriver in more established areas. And then at a nearby table I notice Bentford’s Dutch keeper, Mark Flekken, enjoying a quiet supper with a friend following genuine heroics the night before (he saving the crucial penalty to take them through to the next round of the Carabao Cup). Even as a Leeds fan it was a fantastic watch, and the presence of a Premier League football star in a Brentford restaurant was a reminder that it is not just the football club that has come up in the world. And as one would expect from the (frankly) quite posh crowd that Sam’s restaurants attract, he was able to enjoy the evening entirely undisturbed by requests for selfies.

The Head Chef, Abbie Hendren, also has the area in her blood. She joined Sam’s Waterside as Sous Chef in November 2023, and her obvious talent led Sam Harrison to appoint Abbie as Head Chef. Before that her CV comprises places like the Petersham Hotel in Richmond, the Michelin starred Glasshouse in Kew, where she was Sous Chef, and its sister restaurant, La Trompette in Chiswick. The food we had on our visit proved out comments from others that she is a talent to watch.

Dinner was part of a series celebrating 20 years of the group, at which various of their suppliers and partners joined in – again a touch that speaks to the integrity of the owners. For our seafood evening, they were the excellent top end seafood suppliers Wright Brothers – who as well as supplying the trade also do home delivery – and Chateau d’Eclans, which has reinvented Provencal rose with Whispering Angel. D’Eclans is quite a story, with Sacha Lichine having gambled the family’s famous vinyards in Bordeaux (think Chateau Prieure-Lichine) to prove that you could make a fine wine with rose. Now it is one of the more famous wines in the world and he part owns it with one of the world’s great luxury brands groups, LVMH.

So some punchy support acts, but it was the food from Sam’s Waterside kitchen that was the star of the show.

First up was one of Wright Brother’s Carlingford Oysters with a perfect verjus dressing and a tempura shiso. I’m normally adamant that I prefer Oysters unmolested in their pure briny state – not even a vinaigrette, but I was won over by the clarity and compliment of these flavours. Short summary: given the chance I would eat a lot of this dish. And often too.

Then cured steelhead trout, with yuzu, avocado and radish, with thin black rice shards. Another spot on dish. Cured trout is such a perfect thing, and as with the oyster, the other parts of the dish helped to enhance the fish rather than overwhelm it. Pure, simple deliciousness.

And the meal kept going up a notch: firm, beautifully seared fillet of hake in a rich, warm, slightly spicy nduja sauce with cockles. The sauce was simply epic. I asked for a further bowl of just the sauce so that I could mop it up with some crusty sourdough. But even the sauce was put in the shade by the wonderful, sweet, little cockles. What a dish.

Then stone bass with crushed charlotte potatoes, crab bisque and pickled cucumber. And if that is not the definition of a perfect brasserie dish, I do not know what is. Impressively, I thought that the potatoes must have had a 50/50 butter to potato ratio, but it turns out Abbie has a special confit trick that enables her to make these without putting butter with them. Almost annoyingly great, and very indulgent. And the same adjective definitely needs to be applied to the basque cheesecake with poached English cherries. To cap it all, the dishes were accompanies by a climb through the offerings of d’Esclans from the entry level Wispering Angel, through Rock Angel to the rareified and rare heights of Les Clans, Garrus (my favourite) and Chateau d’Esclans itself.