NO RISK NO FUN – SACHA LICHINE ON FINE ROSÉ WINES

By Darren McCabe Food & Drink

Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans & GARRUS Vertical Tasting

On Friday, March 7th, I had the pleasure of joining Sacha Lichine, the visionary founder of Château d’Esclans, for a delightful lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair. The highlight of the afternoon was a vertical tasting of the exquisite Les Clans and Garrus fine wines, held in the elegant surroundings of Annabel’s. 

A Haven of Tranquil Elegance

Located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, Annabel’s is renowned as one of the world’s most prestigious private members’ clubs. Established in 1963, it has long been a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. In 2018, Annabel’s underwent a stunning transformation, moving to 46 Berkeley Square and receiving a lavish redesign by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The redesign beautifully preserved the building’s historic features, including its grand staircase, intricate plaster ceilings, and elegant fireplaces.

Our tasting took place in the haven of tranquil elegance known as The Silver Room. Overlooking the enchanting garden this room is adorned with original Georgian features, meticulously restored with silver detailing. The bespoke silver glass panels depict classical figures, creating a sophisticated and serene atmosphere. Designed for private events, the Silver Room made it perfect setting for this intimate lunch.

The visionary

Sacha Lichine, a visionary in the wine industry, has against all the odds, transformed Château d’Esclans into a symbol of excellence in Provence. Born in Bordeaux and educated in America, Sacha has immersed himself in every facet of the wine business, from production to sales. His early experiences at his family’s former estates, Château Prieuré Lichine and Château Lascombes, provided him with a solid foundation in winemaking and the wine trade.

In 2006, Sacha left Bordeaux and acquired Château d’Esclans, located in the picturesque hills northeast of St. Tropez.  With a bold vision to create the world’s finest rosés, he spearheaded what is now known as the ‘Rosé Renaissance’.  It was a huge risk, Sacha smiled as he shared, he’d just read the book ‘No Risk, No Fun’. Back then some people did think he was crazy, trading his family business in Bordeaux to make Rose in Provence, “Bankers wouldn’t give me an overdraft, and the trade would say ‘rosé doesn’t sell’.  Sacha explained that when building a brand you need to have three or four layers, price points and therefore the fine wines are accompanied by the world famous Whispering Angel, now selling over £10m bottles worldwide (up from 130,000) along with Rock Angel, “a kind of Super Whispering”, and Chateau D’Esclans.  We were keen to know where he got the ideas for their names, “Whispering Angel, Rock Angel are names inspired by the chapel at the property, with cherubs above the altar and Garrus is the knoll, or plot in the hillside at the estate”.

Les Clans and Garrus: The Pinnacle of Fine Wines

Many people think of rosé as a simple, summer drink, best enjoyed in the sunshine and often consumed without much thought. However, it might be surprising to learn that rosé can have the complexity and longevity of fine wines. Les Clans and Garrus, in particular, defy these expectations with their remarkable depth and aging potential. We tasted through Les Clans and Garrus 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017. Both are exceptional examples of fine wines that challenge the conventional perceptions of rosé. All the grapes used are estate grown grapes, with Les Clans vines being 50-70 years old and Garrus being older.  The wines resemble a white at the beginning and finish as a red, a style they have been perfecting with the 2023 vintage.  

The colour can be deceiving to some, its light and pale, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it wouldn’t have much taste and body but it’s just to the contrary.  Whilst there is very little colour variation across these vintages Sacha’s focus is on “consistency of style rather than colour, seeking elegance in the ripe and well-grown Grenache”. The blend of Grenache and Rolle produces refined flavours, with Rolle adding richness. “A tad of Tibouren contributes a floral touch”, though Sacha is not a great fan of it.  He emphasised that” the wine must deserve the wood it ages in”. Experimentation with different barrels, woods, and coopers has led to wines that never taste of wood but offer an extra layer of complexity, making them linger on the palate. 

The 2023 vintage stands out as a remarkable year for both Les Clans and Garrus. This vintage represents a significant milestone in the history of Provence rosé, with all three Château d’Esclans wines achieving exceptional acclaim.  Garrus is characterised by its remarkable clarity and brightness, showcasing a refined structure and subtle notes of oak and almond. The wine’s elegance and composure are reminiscent of some of the finest Burgundian whites.  But “its tyring to be its own individual style, it might resemble white burgundy but has a style of its own, it tastes well”. Les Clans from 2023 is celebrated for its harmonious balance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for pairing with a wide range of dishes.

Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed all of them the 2020 vintage stood out as my favourite.  They have proven to be exceptional, demonstrating the potential for aging and the depth of flavour that can be achieved with meticulous winemaking. These wines are not only a delight to drink now but also promise to continue evolving beautifully in the years to come. 

Their ability to age gracefully is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative techniques employed in their production. These wines evolve beautifully over time, developing deeper flavours and greater complexity, making them ideal for aging.  “We’re not trying to change the world, what we’re trying to offer is that rose can be a fine wine if one wants it to be”. 

A race against oxidation

Sacha’s dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of the production process. From handpicking the grapes to experimenting with different barrels and woods, every detail is carefully considered. Harvesting is completed by lunchtime, using crates with dry ice and pellets to maintain the coolness of the grapes, preserving the fruit and flavour until the last moment.  With the help of a group of engineers from Bordeaux, his team has developed a state-of-the-art technology, including nitrogen gas to reduce oxidation and a glycol system with tentacles that chill inside the barrels. This innovation allows for controlled fermentation at different temperatures, making these wines possible today.  “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.” Garrus, comprising 90% free-run juice the wine is vinified in the whitest 600-litre barrels you will come across, new oak (20%), second-year oak (40%), and third-year oak (40%).  Renewing the barrels every three years undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period gives the wines a lovely blanched almond flavour, whilst building structure and depth.

The risk paid off

The 2025 vintage, set to be released in 2026, will mark the Chateau’s 20th vintage. The investment in Provence has grown reflecting the commitment to quality. The category is improving, and as it does, interest grows. 

The risk taken has paid off, with the wines now available in 110 countries.  50% of sales are in the US and 25% in the UK, with the rest of the world accounting for the final 25%.  Sacha hails the UK as being crucial for the fine wine market, and without it, there would be no such market. 

Conclusion

Sacha Lichine’s dedication to innovation and quality has brought Provence rosé to the global map. His wines, from Whispering Angel to Garrus, showcase the potential of rosé as a fine wine, driven by a vision of elegance and refinement.

Les Clans and Garrus are more than just rosé wines; they are masterpieces that showcase the potential of rosé as fine wine. Their age-worthiness and compatibility with food, combined with Sacha Lichine’s expertise and commitment to quality, make them truly exceptional. These wines are a testament to the fact that with the right knowledge and investment, rosé can achieve the same level of sophistication and elegance as the finest wines in the world.

Wednesday Wines – Episode 255 – Ageless Esclans & 2024 Whispering Angel

It was a joy to reenact a Château d’Esclans vertical tasting last week with its founder Sacha Lichine, some eight years after I hosted the same event in New York City with the late Château d’Esclans winemaker Patrick Léon.  These stellar rosés have an uncanny ability to age.  They do so, not in a linear fashion like, say, a predictable red wine, but in a swirling, convoluted and always surprising manner.  After tasting the newly released 2023s, which I reviewed in my Finest Fifty 2024 Report published back in January for members of matthewjukes.com, we dived into some older vintages of Les Clans and Garrus. 

I have no images of this event as there are strict rules at Annabel’s private club regarding photography, so I have included a photo taken back in November when I first tasted these wines, as well as a bottle shot of the new 2024 Whispering Angel, whose review also features below.

As a reminder, here is an edited extract from Finest Fifty 2024

2023 Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France

2023 will go down in Provence rosé history as the vintage when all three ‘Château d’Esclans’ wines hit the high notes simultaneously.  The trio of 2023s have only just been released, and I was privileged to taste them with Sacha Lichine in London in November.  This tasting further underlined that these are genuinely authentic fine wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the world’s top sparklers, whites and reds.  Garrus has long been the grandest rosé on the planet, and I find so much to admire in this wine; it is incredible.   

2023 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé is firm, bright, crystalline and refined with blonde oak and blanched almond highlights.  This level of composure is usually only found in graceful Grand Cru Burgundies.  Precision cut, reserved and reluctant to show its full hand this early in its development, this is another cosmic performance from this trailblazing wine.  My headliner, Les Clans, shows another level of elegance, coupled with lip-smacking precocity, so while Garrus is one for the cellar, Les Clans is ready to romance from the moment it is released.  Near perfect in weight, timbre and balance, this is a glorious wine, and it can perform every duty from complex canapés to main course feasts! 

Where Garrus slows the conversation down so one can fully appreciate the constellation of flavours present, Les Clans skips along merrily, making it the definitive ‘rich person’s fast wine’.  If you were left to your own devices, I could see Les Clans disappearing at an impressive rate of knots without ever tiring the taste buds or becoming repetitive.  Finally, it is extremely exciting to announce that the estate wine, 2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé, has finally – and it has been a bit of a wait – joined its fellows at the top of the tree.  For as long as I can remember, this cuvée has been meandering around, searching for a purpose. 

Whispering Angel and Rock Angel have bookended this portfolio at the commercial end, and Les Clans and Garrus soared around the stratosphere, leaving ‘Château’ somewhat lost.  In 2023, there is so much gravitas and purity that it has gone from also-ran to catwalk-ready in one fell swoop.  I would go so far as to say the silhouette of this wine is more Puligny-like than many Pulignys!   This is easily the most exciting estate Esclans to date, and it is fabulously open and vibrant with skipping-stone flavours and lashings of joie de vivre.  What a trio!  19/20 (Drink now – 2028)

Adding to this tasting note –

2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé looked even more composed and refined than in November, and it was a consummate aperitif wine with stunningly decadent canapés.  We tasted through Les Clans 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017.  The 2023 is clearly a thoroughbred; despite its youth, it looked every inch a superstar, as noted above.  The 2022 was spicier and more crunch and active on the palate, and I loved the brittle acidity on the finish.  2021 was more expressive, fleshy, and main course shaped.  It was just starting to hit its peak! 

The 2020 was a wickedly delicious wine with stunning balance and completeness.  I have always adored this vintage. 

The 2017 was tiring a touch, but it shows that at eight years old, there is still energy in the tank.  Remarkable. 

We then repeated the same vintages with Garrus and as you might expect, the flavours were bolder, fuller and more dashing! 

The 2023 is a masterful creation, but it is tense and coiled!  The 2022 looked ravishing.  I have always had a soft spot for this awesome wine, and it is just starting to show signs of softening.  That said, it is possible to bathe in its glory already, as long as you have the right food in front of you (we enjoyed roast chicken). 

2021 showed more crystalline traits with lashing so juicy fruit, straight-jacketed by thrilling acidity.  Drinking, but with so much class and tension, this will run and run. 

The 2020 was typically silky and beautiful – an haute couture vintage – and it is drinking well now and will continue for a good few years to come. 

The 2017 is an event horizon wine!  It was a challenging vintage and a triumphant result.  Drinking beautifully, with incredible grace and kaleidoscopic complexity, it underlines that this collection of rosé wines is the most age-worthy and delicious in the wine world, and they deserve a place in the very finest cellars on earth.

2024 Whispering Angel Rosé, Caves d’Esclans, Sacha Lichine, Côtes de Provence, France

As I talked with Sacha, he let me into a secret.  He thinks 2024 is one of the finest vintages he has ever seen in Provence.  And, if this wine is anything to go by, he is right.  This is a seamless, languid, soothing Whispering Angel with terrific balance and immediate appeal.  Sometimes, this wine takes a couple of months to get into its stride.  Sometimes, it misses summer altogether, falling into equilibrium in time for turkey at Christmas, although I suspect no one notices or even cares!  In 2024, it is impeccable from the off.  This is justifiably the most famous / best value rosé in the world and if anyone still thinks otherwise, one sip of this beguilingly lip-smacking wine will change their minds – Chapeau!

There are many suppliers of all these wines in the UK, including countless retailers for Whispering Angel, so you are likely to find it everywhere given that 10m bottles are produced, but the Estate wines can be found from Vinatis, Selfridges, Fine Wine Direct, Hedonism Wines, Vinvm, ND John, Millesima, Jeroboams and Harrods.

Garrus 2022, the rosé not to be forgotten

By João Jacinto Ferreira

Considered the most iconic wine from Château d’Esclans, in the heart of French Provence, the Garrus 2022 rosé, made with Grenache and Vermentino (Rolle) grapes from a vineyard that is almost a hundred years old, will be released on the market in March. The Château d’Esclans estate, with 140 hectares of vineyards, was acquired in 2006 by Sacha Lichine, who immediately set out with the ambition of creating the best rosés in the world, thus beginning the “Renaissance du rosé” project.
Aged and fermented in large new French oak barrels for 11 months, the Garrus 2022 is a powerful and concentrated wine, firmly established as an iconic, world-class rosé. Complex yet surprisingly light, with a creamy finish and rich, spicy notes, it stands shoulder to shoulder with any top white wine or prestige Champagne.

On the nose, it is very pure. Extremely powerful, the olfactory notes express the entire personality of this wine. With a light and appealing color, on the palate it has an expressive acidity and a lightness that contrasts with its complexity. Rich and complex, Garrus 2022 has a good finish and good aging potential. A winning bet for your cellar.

Available in 75 cl, 1.5l and 3l bottles.

RRP:  €119.95 with box

Available at:  El Corte Inglés

About Château D’Esclans

The Château d’Esclans is located in the heart of Provence, northeast of Saint-Tropez, with the Mediterranean as its backdrop. This magical estate, whose vineyards cover 140 hectares of the rocky limestone slopes of the Esclans Valley, offers a bucolic setting. The château’s cellars, the oldest in the region, originally housed a medieval castle that was handed over by the Count of Provence to Gérard De Villeneuve in 1210. The current château, built in the 19th century, is inspired by the style of Tuscan villas. Sacha Lichine acquired the château in 2006 with the ambition of creating the world’s finest rosés, thus initiating the “renaissance du rosé”.

Château d’Esclans: the emblematic Provençal estate of luxury rosés

By Fabien Dubois

Château d’Esclans is a wine gem nestled in the heart of Provence. A property of 427 hectares, including 140 hectares of vines, this estate has established itself as a world reference in the production of high-end rosés. Acquired in 2006 by Sacha Lichine , the estate has experienced a meteoric rise, becoming a symbol of excellence in the world of wine.

Château d’Esclans, a Provençal wine jewel, has established itself as a world reference in the production of high-end rosés.

  • Exceptional estate of 427 hectares, including 140 hectares of vines
  • Annual production of approximately 450,000 bottles
  • Cutting-edge winemaking techniques for complex wines
  • International influence with 95% of production exported
  • Flagship vintage: Whispering Angel , world reference for Provence rosés

An exceptional estate in Provence

Located in the Var, Château d’Esclans benefits from a Mediterranean climate ideal for growing vines. The clay-limestone soils and sandy gravel give the wines their unique character. I had the chance to visit this estate during one of my wine-tasting trips, and I can assure you that the setting is simply breathtaking.

The Château itself, in the 19th century Tuscan style, is surrounded by vineyards, some of which are over 80 years old. These old vines, mainly Grenache, are the source of the Garrus cuvée, which was the most expensive rosé in the world when it was released . The history of the estate dates back to Roman times, adding an interesting heritage dimension to this place.

In 2019, the LVMH group (Moët Hennessy) became the majority shareholder at 55%, marking a new stage in the development of the estate. This association has helped consolidate the position of Château d’Esclans on the international luxury wine market.

A wine production of excellence

Château d’Esclans produces around 450,000 bottles per year, sold in more than 100 countries. The main vintages are:

  • Garrus
  • Les Clans
  • Château d’Esclans
  • Rock Angel
  • Whispering Angel

Among these vintages, Whispering Angel has established itself as a world reference for Provence rosés. During a tasting that I hosted in Dijon, my hometown, this wine particularly seduced the participants with its finesse and freshness.

The Château d’Esclans vineyard is made up of several traditional grape varieties of the region:

Red grape varietiesWhite grape varieties
GrenacheRolle
Cinsault
Tibouren
Mourvèdre
Syrah

Cutting-edge winemaking techniques

Château d’Esclans is distinguished by the use of modern techniques and high-level oenology. The harvest is carried out manually, early in the morning, to preserve the freshness of the grapes. Rigorous optical and manual sorting guarantees the selection of the best berries.

The vinification is done in stainless steel vats and oak barrels, depending on the vintage. This approach makes it possible to obtain wines of great complexity, combining freshness and aging potential. The estate’s cellars, among the oldest in Provence, offer optimal conditions for maturing the wines.

I had the opportunity to chat with the technical team at a trade show, and their passion for innovation is truly inspiring. They are constantly looking for new methods to enhance the expression of the Provençal terroir.

International influence

The success of Château d’Esclans extends far beyond the borders of Provence. In fact, around 92 to 95% of the production is exported , mainly to Anglo-Saxon markets. This international success is a testament to the exceptional quality of the wines produced by the estate.

The reputation of Château d’Esclans is built on the finesse and elegance of its rosés. These wines are renowned for their freshness, aromatic complexity and remarkable ageing potential, defying preconceived ideas about rosé wines.

When I travel to give wine conferences, I am always impressed by the reputation of Château d’Esclans abroad. It is a true ambassador of the French art of living and Provençal wine excellence.

As a wine and gastronomy enthusiast, I can only recommend that you discover the vintages of Château d’Esclans. They offer a unique taste experience, perfect to accompany your moments of summer conviviality or to enhance your most refined dishes.

2023 will go down in Provence rosé history as the vintage when all three ‘Château d’Esclans’ wines hit the high notes simultaneously. The trio of 2023s will be released in February 2025 and I was privileged to taste them with Sacha Lichine in London in November and it further underlined that these are genuinely authentic fine wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the world’s top sparklers, whites and reds. 

Garrus has long been the finest rosé on the planet, and I find so much to admire in this wine, it is incredible. 

2023 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé is firm, bright, crystalline and refined with blonde oak and almond highlights and a level of composure usually only found in graceful Grand Cru Burgundies. Precision cut, reserved and reluctant to show its full hand this early in its development, this is another cosmic performance from this trail-blazing wine. 

My headliner, Les Clans, shows another level of elegance, coupled with lip-smacking precocity, so while Garrus is one for the cellar, Les Clans is ready to romance from the moment it is released. Near perfect in weight, timbre and balance, this is a glorious wine, and it can perform every duty from complex canapés to main course feasts! Where Garrus slows the conversation down so one can fully appreciate the constellation of flavours present, Les Clans skips along merrily, making it the definitive ‘rich person’s fast wine’. If you were left to your own devices, I could see

Les Clans disappearing at an impressive rate of knots without ever tiring the taste buds or becoming repetitive.

Finally, it is extremely exciting to announce that the estate wine, 2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé, has finally, and it has been a bit of a wait, joined its fellows at the top of the tree. For as long as I can remember, this cuvée has been meandering around searching for a purpose, while Whispering Angel and Rock Angel bookended the portfolio at the commercial end and Les Clans and Garrus soared around the stratosphere. In 2023, there is so much gravitas and purity it has gone from also-ran to catwalk-ready in one fell swoop. I would go so far as to say the silhouette of this wine is more Puligny-like than many Pulignys! This is easily the most exciting estate Esclans to date, and it is fabulously open and vibrant with skipping stone flavours and lashings of joie de vivre. What a trio!

Wines of the Year 2024

By Tom Cannavan

I have published my Wines of the Year for 27 years. Choosing for 2024 was as challenging as ever, but I’ve managed to slot in one wine in each of ten categories. Among my choices are rare old Australian wines that come from dinners with generous friends in Melbourne that I will never forget.
As always, I invited visitors to wine-pages.com to send in their own nominations for publication on the site. The ‘Dud’ could be the worst or most disappointing wine, and ‘Thing’ can be used as imaginatively as you like. The definition of ‘budget’ in this exercise will vary for each person, so there’s no hard and fast rule.

Tom’s Wines of the Year 2024


Château d’Esclans, Garrus Rosé 2022

Provence, France, Dry Rosé, Cork, 14.5% abv

95 Points

From a single vineyard of 100-year-old vines, Garrus is fermented and aged in new French oak, but larger 600-litre barrels. There’s an intensity here, dried apricot and an earthy, dried fig nuance over both small red berries and a creamy almond and nut husk background. In the mouth there is immense concentration. It’s a rosé with real grip and purpose, and many layers of flavour and texture. Another convincing Garrus, with extract and phenolic that few achieve, but importantly, done with grace and elegance too.


So few French wines in my list this year. That reflects tasting opportunities, but also that I am keen to explore all sorts of wines and all sorts of regions. Some of my choices are from a holiday in Australia in January/February where meeting up with local wine lovers was an absolute highlight, and the generosity of them sharing truly historic vintages of fabled Australian wines was quite extraordinary.

There were also wonderful ‘offlines’ in London and Edinburgh when friends from this site’s community shared some fabulous bottles – including the extraordinary 1802 Madeira in the list above.

My dud is a ‘Vin de France’. I awarded it 85 points (“Average. A wine with no serious flaws, but no distinction”), so not an awful review, and while I feel bad about singling out one example and, indeed, one wine classification, it represents so many others: fantasy brands with no provenance that are 100% ‘product’; but zero percent soul. The

Vin de France classification allows wines to be blended from across French regions and some producers are using it as an opportunity to make really interesting wines, but others to concoct wines purely to fit some marketing profile. Vin de France is not alone of course: it’s a game that Australia and other countries without strict appellation rules invented. I’m just rather weary of these perfectly ‘pleasant’ but characterless wines.

My thing of the year: friends and family. As I get older I value the company and the good times shared with family and friends, old and new, more and more. I appreciate their loyalty and support. Thank you.

Take Time to Smell the Rosés

By David Bowden

Wine appreciation is very much a sensory experience, arousing almost all our senses; this is possibly no more evident than with rosé wines. Rosé is available in the market as a still wine or sparkling, with sparkling rosé styles from Champagne being some of the most highly prized wines in the world. While red and white wines send out visual cues; nothing arouses the sense of sight like a light pink, rose-coloured rosé.

The distinctive pink to salmon colour occurs when the juice from red (black-skinned) grapes are allowed to briefly come into contact with the skin (the cheaper method, although forbidden in France, is to blend a little red with white wine).

While some may blush at the mere mention of rosé – pun intended – there are many serious pink wines on the market. As they are not aged in oak, many of these wines are made for early drinking and so are best consumed within two or three years. Rosé is perfect as an aperitif wine, as it looks most impressive in the glass. They are best served chilled at between 8-10°C.

Whispering Angel, a wildly popular rosé

Few rosés make it onto lists of the world’s best wines, but they do have their followers and deserve greater credit than they often garner. Rosé is an easy-drinking, fresh wine, and, as such, finds it a little difficult to join the ranks of a great wine style. The stylish packaging and bottles and the wines’ very pale salmon colour also play a big role in the success of the better-known rosé wines, such as Garrus from Chateau d’Esclans, Clos du Temple, and Whispering Angel.

In some countries, particularly the United States, rosé wines serve as an introduction to the world of wines for many. From the mid-1970s into the 1980s and 1990s in particular, rosé wines, especially varieties like White Zinfandel (a rosé made from the red Zinfandel grape), were often Americans’ first foray into wine.

Their approachable sweetness, light body, and affordability made them perfect for casual sipping. California’s Sutter Home winery unquestionably spearheaded the White Zinfandel craze of the era, becoming a household name with its bottles typically costing just $3 or $4, alongside other brands like Beringer and Franzia. (Indeed, the White Zinfandel varietal was the number one selling wine in the United States for 11 years running!)

These “cheap and cheerful” wines introduced a whole generation to wine culture in a relaxed, inexpensive, unpretentious way. As an unexpected side benefit, the runaway sales of ‘White Zin’ compelled growers to save countless acres of their older Zinfandel grape vines from being ripped out, and these days, those well-matured vines are turning out some genuinely superb Zinfandel wines.

Outside of the US, many consumers were introduced to the wide world of wines by squat bottles of Portuguese rosé. By the 1980s, both the red and sparkling white versions of Mateus rosé accounted for some 40% of all Portuguese wine sales. Over 3.25 million cases of Mateus per annum were sold then, and its competitor, Lancers, was producing similar quantities. Palates have changed, and these two styles have declined in global sales.

But although the mass-produced rosé wines of that era were regarded as unserious, budget wines (often on the sweet side), appealing to newbies and also to drinkers who perhaps couldn’t decide between red and white alternatives, the rosé category has grown considerably in stature as discerning drinkers discover many appealing global styles.

Wine expert reveals the unusual style you should be serving on Christmas Day

By Charlotte Kristensen

I recently introduced myself at a wine tasting as a ‘365 rosé girl’. Sipping the pink drink poolside or at a beach club with friends in warmer climates is what we dream of on these grey winter days.

But our darling rosé isn’t just a summer fling – it’s an effortless crowd-pleaser that will delight palates over the festive season just as it does in the sun.

As the wine expert of the family, I’ve been steadily introducing new traditions in the vino department over the last few years. 

The most controversial – now fully embraced by our multi-generational table of drinkers – is a magnum of rosé served with our beetroot and gin-cured salmon starter, perfected by my dad, on Christmas Day. 

It’s the perfect middle ground for those who don’t enjoy an oaky white, squirm at an aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, brace themselves for the acidity of other crisp styles, or generally ‘just drink red’.

The British choice is typically a Provence-style pale pink: elegant, fresh, with just the right level of juiciness…

The best food and rosé pairings to try this Christmas

Salmon: Rosé wines cut through the rich, smoky, and oily textures of smoked salmon, while their silky texture and delicate flavours create a harmonious pairing with cured salmon.

Cured meats: Prosciutto, Jamón Ibérico, salami, and similar cured meats are flavourful, salty, and fatty, making them a perfect match for the crispness of rosé, which provides a vibrant lift.

Pomegranate salad: This pairing plays on the red fruit notes found in both rosé and pomegranate, creating a light, lively, and festive match.

Lobster, prawn and crab: The succulent, subtly sweet, and salty-mineral flavours of shellfish are complemented by rosé wines, which echo and enhance these delicate attributes.

Glazed ham: Rosé is a delightful match for the meaty, honeyed flavours of glazed ham, offering a bright, crisp counterpoint to this rich and satisfying Christmas favourite.

The best rosé wines to drink this Christmas

2022 Garrus Rose, Chateau d’Esclans, Cotes de Provence

A splurge-worthy gourmet rosé from the Whispering Angel family – unusually it is oaked, offering a structured, spiced sip with depth.

Pale salmon, this is opulent and ripe with plum, peach and apple mingling with oak spice and red fruits. Very creamy textured with herbal spicy notes, vanilla and summer berries. Long and fresh.

The 19 Best Gifts for Wine Lovers in Your Life

From rare bottle sets to the best accessories, here’s what true oenophiles want this holiday season.
Published on November 15, 2024

By Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen

Wine lovers are the easiest people on your list to shop for: You never have to worry about whether your gift is going to fit or not! We’ve scoured top sources for the best ideas for the oenophiles on your list, and if you see something here that you want for yourself, it’s never too early to start dropping hints. From unique boxed sets to the latest accessories and glasses, we have you covered in your search for the perfect toast-worthy holiday gift.

Chateau d’Esclans 2021 Garrus Rosé Cotes de Provence Provence France

Sacha Lichine acquired Chateau d’Esclans in Provence in 2006. The estate is situated just north of St. Tropez and many people may know the chateau as the home of Whispering Angel rosé wine. While Whispering Angel is a perfectly fine entry offering, Sacha’s Garrus Rosé makes the former pale in comparison. If it weren’t for the pink color, Garrus 2021 could fool you into thinking you’re drinking a fine white Burgundy. It has aromas of white peach, apricot puree, and caramelized pineapple and flavors of pear, apple, candied orange peel, and luscious crème brulée with a bright acid finish. 

10 Popular Rosé Wines To Explore Worldwide For Beginners

By Smriti Dey

Glasses of crisp, refreshing pink wines are a sight for winter-weary eyes, much like fresh strawberries from the local farmers market. Depending on the grapes used and the growing region, rosé comes in a variety of types, so you can discover a year-round beverage.

There is a sort of wine called rosé that has some colour from the grape skins but not enough to be considered a red wine. Since it is the easiest to manufacture using the skin contact method, it might be the oldest known type of wine. The pink colour can range from a light “onionskin” orange to a vibrant near-purple, depending on the grape varietals and winemaking methods. In English-speaking nations, the wine is typically called rosé, rosado in Spanish, or rosato in Italian.

Rosé wine can be made using three main methods: blending, saignée, and skin contact. Rosé wines come in a variety of sweetness levels, from extremely dry Provençal rosé to sweet White Zinfandels and blushes. They can be made still, semi-sparkling, or sparkling. Rosé wines are produced using a broad range of varietals and are exported all over the world.

The skin contact method is used to produce rosé wine when it is the main product. After being crushed, black-skinned grapes’ skins are left in contact with the juice for a brief amount of time—usually two to twenty hours. Instead of leaving the skins in contact during fermentation (as is the case when making red wine), the grape must be squeezed and disposed of. The finished wine’s colour will become more vivid the longer the skins stay in contact with the liquid. See which rosé is the finest in the world by continuing to read. 

Château d’Esclans

Many attribute the current rosé wine craze to winemaker Sacha Lichine, who created Whispering Angel, the 2006 rosé that started it all. Even if Whispering Angel is still a fantastic rosé, ultra-premium rosés from other producers, including Château d’Esclans, have surpassed it. These wines are robust, yet they are refreshing, in contrast to many rosés, which have mild flavours. Raspberries and strawberries are paired with undertones of pineapple, ginger, and black liquorice in Les Clans’ tropical and spicy flavour profile. It costs 15000 INR.