Sacha Lichine on premium rosé: ‘We’re not trying to change the world. We’re trying to get the word out’

12th March 2025
By Sophie Arundel

Rosé has long been the drink of choice for sunseekers in St Tropez and après-ski party-goers in Courchevel. But while it’s still synonymous with beach clubs and bottles on ice, Château d’Esclans isn’t on a mission to rewrite the script—just to offer premium rosé as an option for those who want it. 

If you think rosé, you might think of magnums being poured from height into peoples mouths at La Folie Douce, or endless glasses poured along the Riviera by those wanting a quick route to tipsiness under the Mediterranean sun. It’s not exactly a category steeped in the reverence afforded to Burgundy or Bordeaux. But one producer that has undeniably reshaped perceptions is Château d’Esclans—the house behind Whispering Angel. Whether you love it or not, there’s no denying its cultural impact.

On Friday 7 March, an intimate lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair (because where else?) set the stage for a deeper dive into Château d’Esclans’ premium rosé offering. The table, filled with pastel-hued flowers mirroring the soft pink hues of the Garrus 2024 and Les Clans 2024 vintages, framed a discussion around where rosé fits in the fine wine world.

A different approach to premium Rosé

At the lunch, Lichine was clear about his intentions: “We’re not trying to change the world. We’re trying to get the word out.” Rather than waging a campaign to convince sceptics that rosé is a “serious” wine, the goal is simply to offer premium rosé in a premium setting. Fine dining restaurants, Michelin-starred establishments, and collectors’ cellars—places where traditionally only white and red have had a seat at the table.

The UK has driven fine wine trends for centuries. As Lichine noted, “If it wasn’t for the UK, there wouldn’t be a fine wine market.” Whether UK drinkers will embrace premium rosé in the same way remains to be seen. But with bottles of Garrus and Les Clans appearing in more high-end settings, it’s clear that Château d’Esclans has already succeeded in making it an option.

The wines: Beyond the beach club

Esteemed wine author Jane Anson has described Les Clans as a “serious wine that still has the fresh lightness of touch of a perfect summer rosé,” and the tasting notes back that up.

Garrus is often likened to an elegant white Burgundy. Made primarily from nearly century-old, low-yielding Grenache vines, it is the most complex expression of Côtes de Provence rosé. Comprising 90% free-run juice, the wine is vinified in 600-litre temperature-controlled oak barrels, undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period to build structure and depth.

Les Clans, the sibling to Garrus, offers a more structured take on rosé, balancing its fresh, summer-ready minerality with a rich, satiny texture. Made from old-vine Grenache and Rolle, it undergoes ten months of ageing in new and second-year demi-muids, developing woody, vanilla, and fresh fruit notes alongside a saline finish.

With over 10 million bottles of Whispering Angel sold annually, the brand has undoubtedly dominated the rosé space. But while the name has become ubiquitous, Château d’Esclans’ top cuvées are designed to show that rosé doesn’t have to be an afterthought on a fine dining wine list.

Innovation in winemaking

Château d’Esclans has pioneered technological advancements in rosé production. As Sacha Lichine himself put it, “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.”

Rosé is deceptively difficult to produce well, particularly when the goal is to achieve a Burgundian level of complexity while working with diverse terroirs. The process begins with carefully picked and sorted grapes, which are cooled and pressed before entering a sophisticated temperature-control system. Here, a double-layered stainless steel heat exchange system rapidly drops the temperature from around 25°C to 7-8°C, preserving freshness and aromatic intensity.

The next step, a closed-loop press system using inert nitrogen gas, prevents oxidation while enhancing the wine’s clarity and purity. The resulting free-run juice undergoes degumming, allowing unwanted solids to settle before fermentation. The end result? A clean, precise rosé with a pale, elegant hue and a depth that challenges preconceptions.

Wednesday Wines – Episode 255 – Ageless Esclans & 2024 Whispering Angel

12th March 2025

It was a joy to reenact a Château d’Esclans vertical tasting last week with its founder Sacha Lichine, some eight years after I hosted the same event in New York City with the late Château d’Esclans winemaker Patrick Léon.  These stellar rosés have an uncanny ability to age.  They do so, not in a linear fashion like, say, a predictable red wine, but in a swirling, convoluted and always surprising manner.  After tasting the newly released 2023s, which I reviewed in my Finest Fifty 2024 Report published back in January for members of matthewjukes.com, we dived into some older vintages of Les Clans and Garrus.  I have no images of this event as there are strict rules at Annabel’s private club regarding photography, so I have included a photo taken back in November when I first tasted these wines, as well as a bottle shot of the new 2024 Whispering Angel, whose review also features below.

2023 Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France

2023 will go down in Provence rosé history as the vintage when all three ‘Château d’Esclans’ wines hit the high notes simultaneously.  The trio of 2023s have only just been released, and I was privileged to taste them with Sacha Lichine in London in November.  This tasting further underlined that these are genuinely authentic fine wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the world’s top sparklers, whites and reds.  Garrus has long been the grandest rosé on the planet, and I find so much to admire in this wine; it is incredible.   2023 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé is firm, bright, crystalline and refined with blonde oak and blanched almond highlights.  This level of composure is usually only found in graceful Grand Cru Burgundies.  Precision cut, reserved and reluctant to show its full hand this early in its development, this is another cosmic performance from this trailblazing wine.  My headliner, Les Clans, shows another level of elegance, coupled with lip-smacking precocity, so while Garrus is one for the cellar, Les Clans is ready to romance from the moment it is released.  Near perfect in weight, timbre and balance, this is a glorious wine, and it can perform every duty from complex canapés to main course feasts!  Where Garrus slows the conversation down so one can fully appreciate the constellation of flavours present, Les Clans skips along merrily, making it the definitive ‘rich person’s fast wine’.  If you were left to your own devices, I could see Les Clans disappearing at an impressive rate of knots without ever tiring the taste buds or becoming repetitive.  Finally, it is extremely exciting to announce that the estate wine, 2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé, has finally – and it has been a bit of a wait – joined its fellows at the top of the tree.  For as long as I can remember, this cuvée has been meandering around, searching for a purpose.  Whispering Angel and Rock Angel have bookended this portfolio at the commercial end, and Les Clans and Garrus soared around the stratosphere, leaving ‘Château’ somewhat lost.  In 2023, there is so much gravitas and purity that it has gone from also-ran to catwalk-ready in one fell swoop.  I would go so far as to say the silhouette of this wine is more Puligny-like than many Pulignys!   This is easily the most exciting estate Esclans to date, and it is fabulously open and vibrant with skipping-stone flavours and lashings of joie de vivre.  What a trio!  19/20 (Drink now – 2028)

Adding to this tasting note –

2023 Château d’Esclans Rosé looked even more composed and refined than in November, and it was a consummate aperitif wine with stunningly decadent canapés.  We tasted through Les Clans 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017.  The 2023 is clearly a thoroughbred; despite its youth, it looked every inch a superstar, as noted above.  The 2022 was spicier and more crunch and active on the palate, and I loved the brittle acidity on the finish.  2021 was more expressive, fleshy, and main course shaped.  It was just starting to hit its peak!  The 2020 was a wickedly delicious wine with stunning balance and completeness.  I have always adored this vintage.  The 2017 was tiring a touch, but it shows that at eight years old, there is still energy in the tank.  Remarkable.  We then repeated the same vintages with Garrus and as you might expect, the flavours were bolder, fuller and more dashing!  The 2023 is a masterful creation, but it is tense and coiled!  The 2022 looked ravishing.  I have always had a soft spot for this awesome wine, and it is just starting to show signs of softening.  That said, it is possible to bathe in its glory already, as long as you have the right food in front of you (we enjoyed roast chicken).  2021 showed more crystalline traits with lashing so juicy fruit, straight-jacketed by thrilling acidity.  Drinking, but with so much class and tension, this will run and run.  The 2020 was typically silky and beautiful – an haute couture vintage – and it is drinking well now and will continue for a good few years to come.  The 2017 is an event horizon wine!  It was a challenging vintage and a triumphant result.  Drinking beautifully, with incredible grace and kaleidoscopic complexity, it underlines that this collection of rosé wines is the most age-worthy and delicious in the wine world, and they deserve a place in the very finest cellars on earth.

2024 Whispering Angel Rosé, Caves d’Esclans, Sacha Lichine, Côtes de Provence, France

As I talked with Sacha, he let me into a secret.  He thinks 2024 is one of the finest vintages he has ever seen in Provence.  And, if this wine is anything to go by, he is right.  This is a seamless, languid, soothing Whispering Angel with terrific balance and immediate appeal.  Sometimes, this wine takes a couple of months to get into its stride.  Sometimes, it misses summer altogether, falling into equilibrium in time for turkey at Christmas, although I suspect no one notices or even cares!  In 2024, it is impeccable from the off.  This is justifiably the most famous / best value rosé in the world and if anyone still thinks otherwise, one sip of this beguilingly lip-smacking wine will change their minds – Chapeau!

There are many suppliers of all these wines in the UK, including countless retailers for Whispering Angel, so you are likely to find it everywhere given that 10m bottles are produced, but the Estate wines can be found from Vinatis, Selfridges, Fine Wine Direct, Hedonism Wines, Vinvm, ND John, Millesima, Jeroboams and Harrods.

After some frenzied surfing, the merchant with the widest collection and the keenest prices appears to be

Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans & GARRUS Vertical Tasting

On Friday, March 7th, I had the pleasure of joining Sacha Lichine, the visionary founder of Château d’Esclans, for a delightful lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair. The highlight of the afternoon was a vertical tasting of the exquisite Les Clans and Garrus fine wines, held in the elegant surroundings of Annabel’s. 

A Haven of Tranquil Elegance

Located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, Annabel’s is renowned as one of the world’s most prestigious private members’ clubs. Established in 1963, it has long been a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. In 2018, Annabel’s underwent a stunning transformation, moving to 46 Berkeley Square and receiving a lavish redesign by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The redesign beautifully preserved the building’s historic features, including its grand staircase, intricate plaster ceilings, and elegant fireplaces.

Our tasting took place in the haven of tranquil elegance known as The Silver Room. Overlooking the enchanting garden this room is adorned with original Georgian features, meticulously restored with silver detailing. The bespoke silver glass panels depict classical figures, creating a sophisticated and serene atmosphere. Designed for private events, the Silver Room made it perfect setting for this intimate lunch.

The visionary

Sacha Lichine, a visionary in the wine industry, has against all the odds, transformed Château d’Esclans into a symbol of excellence in Provence. Born in Bordeaux and educated in America, Sacha has immersed himself in every facet of the wine business, from production to sales. His early experiences at his family’s former estates, Château Prieuré Lichine and Château Lascombes, provided him with a solid foundation in winemaking and the wine trade.

In 2006, Sacha left Bordeaux and acquired Château d’Esclans, located in the picturesque hills northeast of St. Tropez.  With a bold vision to create the world’s finest rosés, he spearheaded what is now known as the ‘Rosé Renaissance’.  It was a huge risk, Sacha smiled as he shared, he’d just read the book ‘No Risk, No Fun’. Back then some people did think he was crazy, trading his family business in Bordeaux to make Rose in Provence, “Bankers wouldn’t give me an overdraft, and the trade would say ‘rosé doesn’t sell’.  Sacha explained that when building a brand you need to have three or four layers, price points and therefore the fine wines are accompanied by the world famous Whispering Angel, now selling over £10m bottles worldwide (up from 130,000) along with Rock Angel, “a kind of Super Whispering”, and Chateau D’Esclans.  We were keen to know where he got the ideas for their names, “Whispering Angel, Rock Angel are names inspired by the chapel at the property, with cherubs above the altar and Garrus is the knoll, or plot in the hillside at the estate”.

Les Clans and Garrus: The Pinnacle of Fine Wines

Many people think of rosé as a simple, summer drink, best enjoyed in the sunshine and often consumed without much thought. However, it might be surprising to learn that rosé can have the complexity and longevity of fine wines. Les Clans and Garrus, in particular, defy these expectations with their remarkable depth and aging potential. We tasted through Les Clans and Garrus 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017. Both are exceptional examples of fine wines that challenge the conventional perceptions of rosé. All the grapes used are estate grown grapes, with Les Clans vines being 50-70 years old and Garrus being older.  The wines resemble a white at the beginning and finish as a red, a style they have been perfecting with the 2023 vintage.  

The colour can be deceiving to some, its light and pale, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it wouldn’t have much taste and body but it’s just to the contrary.  Whilst there is very little colour variation across these vintages Sacha’s focus is on “consistency of style rather than colour, seeking elegance in the ripe and well-grown Grenache”. The blend of Grenache and Rolle produces refined flavours, with Rolle adding richness. “A tad of Tibouren contributes a floral touch”, though Sacha is not a great fan of it.  He emphasised that” the wine must deserve the wood it ages in”. Experimentation with different barrels, woods, and coopers has led to wines that never taste of wood but offer an extra layer of complexity, making them linger on the palate. 

The 2023 vintage stands out as a remarkable year for both Les Clans and Garrus. This vintage represents a significant milestone in the history of Provence rosé, with all three Château d’Esclans wines achieving exceptional acclaim.  Garrus is characterised by its remarkable clarity and brightness, showcasing a refined structure and subtle notes of oak and almond. The wine’s elegance and composure are reminiscent of some of the finest Burgundian whites.  But “its tyring to be its own individual style, it might resemble white burgundy but has a style of its own, it tastes well”. Les Clans from 2023 is celebrated for its harmonious balance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for pairing with a wide range of dishes.

Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed all of them the 2020 vintage stood out as my favourite.  They have proven to be exceptional, demonstrating the potential for aging and the depth of flavour that can be achieved with meticulous winemaking. These wines are not only a delight to drink now but also promise to continue evolving beautifully in the years to come. 

Their ability to age gracefully is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative techniques employed in their production. These wines evolve beautifully over time, developing deeper flavours and greater complexity, making them ideal for aging.  “We’re not trying to change the world, what we’re trying to offer is that rose can be a fine wine if one wants it to be”. 

A race against oxidation

Sacha’s dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of the production process. From handpicking the grapes to experimenting with different barrels and woods, every detail is carefully considered. Harvesting is completed by lunchtime, using crates with dry ice and pellets to maintain the coolness of the grapes, preserving the fruit and flavour until the last moment.  With the help of a group of engineers from Bordeaux, his team has developed a state-of-the-art technology, including nitrogen gas to reduce oxidation and a glycol system with tentacles that chill inside the barrels. This innovation allows for controlled fermentation at different temperatures, making these wines possible today.  “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.” Garrus, comprising 90% free-run juice the wine is vinified in the whitest 600-litre barrels you will come across, new oak (20%), second-year oak (40%), and third-year oak (40%).  Renewing the barrels every three years undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period gives the wines a lovely blanched almond flavour, whilst building structure and depth.

The risk paid off

The 2025 vintage, set to be released in 2026, will mark the Chateau’s 20th vintage. The investment in Provence has grown reflecting the commitment to quality. The category is improving, and as it does, interest grows. 

The risk taken has paid off, with the wines now available in 110 countries.  50% of sales are in the US and 25% in the UK, with the rest of the world accounting for the final 25%.  Sacha hails the UK as being crucial for the fine wine market, and without it, there would be no such market. 

Conclusion

Sacha Lichine’s dedication to innovation and quality has brought Provence rosé to the global map. His wines, from Whispering Angel to Garrus, showcase the potential of rosé as a fine wine, driven by a vision of elegance and refinement.

Les Clans and Garrus are more than just rosé wines; they are masterpieces that showcase the potential of rosé as fine wine. Their age-worthiness and compatibility with food, combined with Sacha Lichine’s expertise and commitment to quality, make them truly exceptional. These wines are a testament to the fact that with the right knowledge and investment, rosé can achieve the same level of sophistication and elegance as the finest wines in the world.