Featuring Brand Ambassador Céline Dublanchet on Friday, July 18th
Boston, MA — Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in Boston’s Back Bay is proud to present an exclusive Rosé Wine Dinner in partnership with the iconic Château d’Esclans, home of Whispering Angel. Join us on Friday, July 18th at 6:00 PM for an elegant five-course culinary experience, hosted by Céline Dublanchet, Brand Ambassador of Château d’Esclans.
Each guest will also receive a 375 mL bottle of Whispering Angel Rosé as a gift to take home, continuing the celebration long after the evening ends.
Evening Menu & Wine Pairings
Benvenuto Duxbury Oysters, Basil Granita Mini Tuna Tartare Taco Gazpacho Shooters Paired with: 2024 Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé
Antipasto Burrata, Spicy Blueberry Jam, Pistachio Brittle Paired with: 2023 Château d’Esclans Rock Angel Rosé
Farinaceo Hand-Rolled Potato Gnocchi, Morel Mushrooms, Peas, Parsley Butter Paired with: 2023 Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé
Carne del Giorno 55-Day Prime Aged Strip Steak, Maine Lobster, Truffle Potatoes, Asparagus, Tarragon Butter Paired with: 2022 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé
Dolce Strawberry, Basil Crème Brûlée, Meringue, Macerated Strawberries Paired with: 2024 The Beach by Whispering Angel Vin de Provence Rosé
$150 per guest Reservations required. Limited seating available.
Celebrate the elegance and versatility of Provence rosés in one of Boston’s most sophisticated dining rooms, perfectly paired with a curated summer menu by Davio’s culinary team.
All the medal-winners from The Global Rosé Masters 2025
By Patricia Stefanowicz
After an intense day’s judging last month, we are able to reveal the full list of medallists from The Global Rosé Masters 2025, in which Provence, the Languedoc and Austria were sources of the very best wines. Patricia Stefanowicz MW reports on the tasting.
ONLY IN the past couple of decades has the wine trade begun to take rosé seriously; and so it should when one considers how versatile and well-suited to many occasions rosé wines are.
Nowadays, Provence and the rest of the French Mediterranée are leaders in the category. Usually based on Grenache, with Cinsault and Syrah making up the rest of the blend, the best wines have just a little tannic grip adding interest across the palate, and making them perfect partners for gastronomy. They also tend to be pristine, pale pink-peach in hue and show their colour in flint (clear) glass. Packaging is crucial because, after all, the first duty of a rosé wine is to be ‘pink’, and to see the colour on the shelf (or on the table) is paramount.
There is still a tendency to go for pale – or paler. This year, there were a few delicious wines which did not have even onion skin in the hue. It seems tricky to sell these styles as rosés, as they are closer to blanc de noirs, although most display red fruits and garrigue or mineral accents. Those winemakers who choose to put the wines in wood for added complexity are risking rather a lot. Get it wrong, and disaster can follow. No wonder, then, that rosé is not inexpensive.
The judges tasted a number of quality, balanced, unoaked wines in the under£15 and £15–£20 price brackets. As expected, Provence and the South of France featured heavily in the smattering of Gold medals at these price points, but there were also Golds awarded to Castillo de Albai from Rioja, Planeta from Sicily and Viñedos Puertas from Maule in Chile. There were a fair few Silver medal-winning wines worth drinking from elsewhere, too, including Portugal, Greece, Australia, New Zealand and England.
For unoaked dry wines, the £20–£30 price point hit the sweet spot. Whispering Angel, Château Puech-Haut’s Theyron, G de Galoupet, Château Sainte Marguerite’s Fantastique, Cantina San Marzano’s Amai Susumaniello, Léoube’s Love, Château des Demoiselles, Château Sainte Roseline and Château La Gordonne’s Le Cirque des Grives all took home Golds.
The £30–£50 price bracket was a little less exciting, but Domaines Ott was awarded a Gold in this group. These wines, where cellar care showed through, had plenty of red fruit and crisp acidity, with just a touch of astringency adding structure. When producers choose to use oak (usually second- or third-fill barriques or demi-muids), the wines seem to be first-class. At £20–£30, Weingut Strehn’s Seerosé from Burgenland took a well-deserved Master medal. And at £30–£50, Bodegas Bianchi (Argentina) earned a Gold and Château d’Esclans (Provence) a Master. The stratospherically-priced wines at £50-plus are in fact relative bargains, with enough structure to suit Michelin-star dishes. Château d’Esclans Les Clans was awarded a Gold, and Gérard Bertrand’s Clos du Temple earned a Master. Our Grand Master was – unsurprisingly – Château d’Esclans’ Garrus, a world-class wine by any reckoning.
10 of the world’s finest rosés
By Patrick Schmitt
The category of fine, or luxury rosé, is a fairly new phenomenon, and an expanding one, as more producers try to craft a complex and serious wine that’s also pink. Here, Patrick Schmitt MW picks out 10 of most successful examples following a major blind-tasting last month.
While the top-end of Champagne has for some time incorporated high-priced pink expressions, in still wine, it’s only recently that anyone has dared charge more than £100 for a rosé, and yet, today, there are a few wineries asking that, and more.
What makes such rosés different is sometimes the site selection – with the grapes taken from particular plots, often featuring old, low-yielding vines – but more commonly, it’s due to the cellar techniques, with fine rosés made like great white wines.
By that I mean hand-harvesting, whole-bunch pressing, barrel-fermentations and then maturation in oak vessels in contact with the wine’s fine lees. Such an approach, if well managed (and temperature control and oxygen management is key) can produce a rosé that has a wonderfully full texture, and be age-worthy too. In terms of taste when it’s young, one can expect ripe peachy flavours, allied to creamy, even toasty notes from the oak-influence.
Such wines should also, if they are to be classed as fine, be fresh in every sense: so both zesty and clean. The risk with making fine rosé is ending up with something that lacks the mouth-watering appeal of pink wine, either because it’s heavy, or tired: the characters of too much sweet oak and oxidised, bruised fruit are a danger when eschewing the inert, reductive environs of a stainless steel tank.
The following selection is based on this year’s Global Rosé Masters, which you can read more about below. These are the best expressions over £30 in the competition…
Made exclusively from grapes grown on the estate, Château d’Esclans Rosé is carefully hand-harvested and chilled almost immediately to preserve freshness. Half of the wine is vinified in demimuids (600-litre oak barrels) and half in stainless steel, all temperature-controlled. Over approximately eight months of ageing before blending, the wine’s lees are stirred to increase richness and fullness. The resulting wine is pale peach-pink in colour, with soft yellow peach and ripe pear fruits and rose petal and cream overlay. Dry, the medium-bodied palate shows fresh acidity and density of flavour, and is layered and textured, with an allspice and nutmeg finish. Delicious with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with champignons and sautéed yellow onions. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
LES CLANS 2023
Producer: Château d’Esclans
Region: Provence
Country: France
Grape varieties: 52% Grenache, 48% Rolle
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £58
A powerhouse of a pink drink, Les Clans is a four-wheel-drive rosé that could go anywhere. Why? It’s got this wonderful trait of being rich and creamy, yet delicate and refreshing, making it suitable for sipping on its own or pairing with a wide range of foods, from cured meats to hard cheeses, grilled fish to root vegetables. But should you savour it without accompaniments, you will enjoy the mix of toasted marshmallow and pink grapefruit, along with peach and strawberry, and a lingering note of grilled nuts and citrus zest on the finish. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
GARRUS 2023
Producer: Château d’Esclans
Region: Provence
Country: France
Grape varieties: 67% Grenache, 33% Rolle
ABV: 14%
Approx. retail price: £100
A wine that wows for its subtle complexity, Garrus is the ultimate rosé, and a drink for all occasions, impressing for its instantly appealing characters, as well as intriguing complexity. Whether you sip it slowly or find yourself swallowing it quickly, you’ll experience its complementary layers of flavours, starting with fresh ripe yellow and red fruits, followed by creamy, nutty notes, then some vanilla and toast, and finally lingering tinges of orange zest and grapefruit pith, with a touch of grilled lemon to boot. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
We are proud to announce the results of our wines from the 2025 Global Rosé Masters competition judged on 1 May at The Londoner Hotel in London, employing a distinguished group of experienced judges led by The Drinks Business Editor-In-Chief Patrick Schmitt. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Rosé Master with our wines receiving the following notes and accolades:
Whispering Angel 2024
Probably the world’s most famous rosé, and certainly one of the best-selling, it was pleasing to find that Whispering Angel is a benchmark for quality in the sub £20 category of pale dry pink wines. The rose’s appeal stems from a core of peach, pear and red berry fruit, complemented by a touch of bitter lemon on the finish, while texturally, this is soft in mouthfeel, but leaves one with feeling refreshed with its dry, citric edge.
Rock Angel 2024
The nose reveals delicate red berry aromas with hints of garrigue herbs. On the palate, peach and pomegranate fruit take the lead, supported by a lees-derived texture and a creamy mouthfeel. Subtle oak adds weight and extends the finish, enhancing both depth and length. Medium-plus acidity is well integrated, lending freshness without disrupting the wine’s rounded balance.
Château d’Esclans 2023
The wine is pale peach-pink in colour with soft yellow peach and ripe pear fruits with rose petal and cream overlay. Dry, the medium-bodied palate shows fresh acidity, density of flavour, layered and textured with an allspice and nutmeg finish.
Les Clans 2023
A power house of a pink drink, Les Clans is a four-wheel-drive rosé that could go anywhere. Why? It’s got this wonderful trait of being rich and creamy yet delicate and refreshing, making it suitable for sipping on its own, or pairing with a wide range of foods, from cured meats to hard cheeses, grilled fish to root vegetables. But should you savour it without accompaniments, you will enjoy the mix of toasted marshmallow and pink grapefruit, along with peach and strawberry, and a lingering note of grilled nuts and citrus zest on the finish.
Garrus 2023
Garrus is the ultimate rosé, and a wine for all occasions, wowing for its instantly-appealing characters, as well as intriguing complexity. Whether you sip it slowly or find yourself swallowing it quickly, you’ll experience is complementary layers of flavours, starting with fresh ripe yellow and red fruits, followed by creamy, nutty notes, then some vanilla and toast, and finally, lingering tinges of orange zest and grapefruit pith, with a touch of grilled lemon to boot.
Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2025
Because when it comes to spoiling mom, only the best will do.
By Kim Ayling and Ellys Woodhouse
Château d’Esclans, Garrus rosé
We all know and love Whispering Angel — but what if we told you that the winemaker that produces the world’s favorite rosé has an even more premium offering? You’d buy it by the case presumably. Chateau d’Esclans’ Garrus rosé is made exclusively from a single vineyard of vines that date nearly 100 years. The wine is creamy, full bodied and infinitely more-ish.
Price
$126
“No risk. No fun.” Inside the mind of Château d’Esclans’ Sacha Lichine
The invite didn’t say ‘No riff-raff’ but it could have done. For a deep dive into his super-premium rosés Les Clans and Garrus, Sacha Lichine chose exclusive Mayfair club Annabel’s to show the stylistic differences between these two wood-aged rosés. Like Whispering Angel’s Barbie-like success, Les Clans and Garrus are ‘pinks’ where you are paying for more than what’s in the bottle – it’s a lifestyle you’re tapping into, a signifier of success and good taste. Wine scribe and winemaker Chris Wilson gets under the skin of ultra-premium rosé in Lichine’s company, armed with a full-on vertical of each wine.
By Chris Wilson
“This isn’t tennis club rosé,” says Paul Chevalier, vice president of Château d’Esclans. We are gathered to taste two verticals of the estate’s famous – and famously highly-priced – rosés Les Clans and Garrus.
They may not be fit for the tennis club, but seemingly they are the perfect fit for the private members’ club, as the tasting is taking place in one of the dining rooms of exclusive Mayfair club Annabel’s (dress code: no hats, no Lycra, no heavily branded clothing; etiquette code: no photos; sub-text: no riff-raff).
Obviously everyone broke the rules on the photos, if only managing a quick pap-snap when no-one was looking. You can’t expect a room full of excited, slightly tipsy British journalists not to break the rules.
Sacha Lichine bought Provence estate Chateau D’Esclans in 2006
Château d’Esclans is best known for the sensation that is Whispering Angel, a global Provençal rosé brand that’s loved by everyone from Lady Gaga to The Beckhams, and sets you back £22+ a bottle off the supermarket shelf, and probably the same by-the-glass at the Pacha Ibiza or wherever it’s served.
Whispering Angel is made from “98-99% purchased fruit” and the current annual production is 10m bottles. It’s a pink-hued success story on a par with Barbie, and, off the back of Whispering Angel, Chateau D’Esclans has cemented its rosé reputation and been emboldened to push into the ultra-premium rosé market with its estate wines Les Clans and Garrus; both are small production wines made from 100% estate fruit.
“We’re not trying to change the world,” says Sacha Lichine, the brains behind the brands, who acquired Château d’Esclans in 2006. ”We’re just saying that rosé can be fine wine if you want it to be. We are trying to make the category better and better.”
A young Sacha Lichine with father Alexis – Sacha started running family-owned Prieuré Lichine at the age of 27
During the two hour lunch, Lichine punctuates every moment with brilliant one-liners like these; he has a snappy headline-grabbing response to every question asked and brushes off any comments he doesn’t agree with.
“Quality is what sells, not appellation anymore,” is one such remark. “Women have driven this category,” is another. The best though is “no risk, no fun,” and it’s this one that rings very true as Lichine sold a Bordeaux Château to get into Provençe and ignite the premium Provençal rosé revolution.
When he bought d’Esclans almost 20 years ago the estate was improved and upgraded, from the vineyards to the cellar. It’s now owned by LVMH, and has Bertrand Leon’s (son of original consulting oenologist Patrick Leon) steady hand on the winemaking tiller.
“We are closer to a spirit brand than a wine brand.” Sacha Lichine
Both wines are made from Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino) ‘roughly’ in a 70/30 per cent ratio. Other grapes are grown on the estate, such as Syrah and Cinsault, and used in other rosés, but Syrah is too candied and Cinsault adds nothing, it just bulks things out, or as Lichine puts it, “makes more sauce”. No sauce in the top wines.
Both Les Clans and Garrus are made from hand-picked fruit, harvested in the cool of the morning, then the grapes are cooled again before pressing in an inert closed-circuit press to avoid oxidation. 85-90% of the juice for the wine is free run, so it flows gently through the skins in the press, hence the light colour. At harvest time “it’s a race against oxidation,” says Lichine.
So far, so Provençal rosé… but it’s at the next step where the rulebook is ripped up. Fermentation in steel is the usual practice here, and that’s the Whispering Angel way, but Les Clans and Garrus are both fermented in barrel, specifically 600L French oak barrels each fitted with a cooling rod to regulate the temperature.
The wines are aged for around 11 months in oak, which is much longer than for most rosé wines; this prolonged time in oak adds texture and structure to the wines, and – in some – a touch of creaminess.
“You never want to taste wood, you want it to just create an extra layer of complexity to make it longer in your mouth and on your tongue, and that’s all that we’re using wood for,” says Lichine. “The wine has to deserve the wood as well so the yields are low,” he adds. The vines for Les Clans, for example, are 50-70 years of age and the Garrus vines a little older, both low-yielding. Garrus sees a little more new oak than Les Clans.’
“Doing it this way we create a wine that is richer and fuller and has more vigour,” says Chevalier. “The simplicity of fruit becomes more complex. The idea of ageability comes into play when the wine is made in this way.”
Many of the wines start like a white and finish like a red, these are complex rosés, and they fit wonderfully in a gastronomic context, which is probably what Chevalier was getting at with his tennis club remark. Both Les Clans and Garrus deserve a little more attention than most of the quaffable Provençe rosés on the market, and given the price tags (north of £100 a bottle for many of the vintages below) you certainly expect something more.
“We are closer to a spirit brand than a wine brand,” says Lichine, reeling off another juicy soundbite, and that’s spot on. Both with Whispering Angel and with these ultra-premium wines you are paying for more than what’s in the bottle, it’s a lifestyle you’re tapping into, a signifier of success and good taste.
And so to the wines
Below you’ll find some brief notes on the verticals of the two wines. On the whole there was a stylistic balance between them, across the two cuvées, but Garrus was slightly richer and creamier, Les Clans more fruit-forward.
Les Clans 2023
Full in the mouth, weighty. Raspberry fruit with a herbaceous edge. It has the aromatic intensity of a warm region white wine. You can certainly ‘feel’ the 14% ABV. “A very good vintage, one of the best we’ve ever had in Provençe,” says Lichine.
Les Clans 2022
Softer, more rounded. Again aromatic, but the fruit here is red cherry and pomegranate. Some mineral notes around the edges.
Les Clans 2021
More mineral, oyster shell even. Freeze-dried raspberry this time, crisper. Lovely delicacy and sweetness of fruit. Tasted from double magnum.
Les Clans 2020
Suave, smooth, ripe, Feels less ‘red’ than the others. The accents here are floral and tropical, pineapple. Some herby notes too. Tasted from magnum.
Les Clans 2017
This has aged well. More woody and savoury than the rest of the flight, but remains fleshy and full. Still fresh and immediate with good acidity. These are generous wines.
Garrus 2023
Bright and lucid with raspberry and almond notes and a crystalline tension. Elegant and as classy as you can imagine. Rich.
Garrus 2022
Generous, weighty. Lingering red fruit. Hefty alcohol at 14.5%! Definitely not to drink while playing tennis.
Garrus 2021
More like a white wine than any of the others. Yellow peach, flint and a mineral backbone are the key takeaways. Delightfully full finish with a smidge of oak creaminess.
Garrus 2020
Tasted from magnum. Muscular and punchy, a powerhouse pink. White pepper spice, toasted nuts and herbs all dance merrily along beneath the primary fruit notes of ripe peach and raspberry. Bold and serious.
Garrus 2017
Spicy and opulent with red berry fruit and a delicate acidity, still balanced after all this time. Proof, if needed, that rosé can age, and age well. Tasted from magnum.
NO RISK NO FUN – SACHA LICHINE ON FINE ROSÉ WINES
By Darren McCabe Food & Drink
Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans & GARRUS Vertical Tasting
On Friday, March 7th, I had the pleasure of joining Sacha Lichine, the visionary founder of Château d’Esclans, for a delightful lunch at Annabel’s in Mayfair. The highlight of the afternoon was a vertical tasting of the exquisite Les Clans and Garrus fine wines, held in the elegant surroundings of Annabel’s.
A Haven of Tranquil Elegance
Located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, Annabel’s is renowned as one of the world’s most prestigious private members’ clubs. Established in 1963, it has long been a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. In 2018, Annabel’s underwent a stunning transformation, moving to 46 Berkeley Square and receiving a lavish redesign by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The redesign beautifully preserved the building’s historic features, including its grand staircase, intricate plaster ceilings, and elegant fireplaces.
Our tasting took place in the haven of tranquil elegance known as The Silver Room. Overlooking the enchanting garden this room is adorned with original Georgian features, meticulously restored with silver detailing. The bespoke silver glass panels depict classical figures, creating a sophisticated and serene atmosphere. Designed for private events, the Silver Room made it perfect setting for this intimate lunch.
The visionary
Sacha Lichine, a visionary in the wine industry, has against all the odds, transformed Château d’Esclans into a symbol of excellence in Provence. Born in Bordeaux and educated in America, Sacha has immersed himself in every facet of the wine business, from production to sales. His early experiences at his family’s former estates, Château Prieuré Lichine and Château Lascombes, provided him with a solid foundation in winemaking and the wine trade.
In 2006, Sacha left Bordeaux and acquired Château d’Esclans, located in the picturesque hills northeast of St. Tropez. With a bold vision to create the world’s finest rosés, he spearheaded what is now known as the ‘Rosé Renaissance’. It was a huge risk, Sacha smiled as he shared, he’d just read the book ‘No Risk, No Fun’. Back then some people did think he was crazy, trading his family business in Bordeaux to make Rose in Provence, “Bankers wouldn’t give me an overdraft, and the trade would say ‘rosé doesn’t sell’. Sacha explained that when building a brand you need to have three or four layers, price points and therefore the fine wines are accompanied by the world famous Whispering Angel, now selling over £10m bottles worldwide (up from 130,000) along with Rock Angel, “a kind of Super Whispering”, and Chateau D’Esclans. We were keen to know where he got the ideas for their names, “Whispering Angel, Rock Angel are names inspired by the chapel at the property, with cherubs above the altar and Garrus is the knoll, or plot in the hillside at the estate”.
Les Clans and Garrus: The Pinnacle of Fine Wines
Many people think of rosé as a simple, summer drink, best enjoyed in the sunshine and often consumed without much thought. However, it might be surprising to learn that rosé can have the complexity and longevity of fine wines. Les Clans and Garrus, in particular, defy these expectations with their remarkable depth and aging potential. We tasted through Les Clans and Garrus 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020 and 2017. Both are exceptional examples of fine wines that challenge the conventional perceptions of rosé. All the grapes used are estate grown grapes, with Les Clans vines being 50-70 years old and Garrus being older. The wines resemble a white at the beginning and finish as a red, a style they have been perfecting with the 2023 vintage.
The colour can be deceiving to some, its light and pale, and you’d be forgiven for thinking it wouldn’t have much taste and body but it’s just to the contrary. Whilst there is very little colour variation across these vintages Sacha’s focus is on “consistency of style rather than colour, seeking elegance in the ripe and well-grown Grenache”. The blend of Grenache and Rolle produces refined flavours, with Rolle adding richness. “A tad of Tibouren contributes a floral touch”, though Sacha is not a great fan of it. He emphasised that” the wine must deserve the wood it ages in”. Experimentation with different barrels, woods, and coopers has led to wines that never taste of wood but offer an extra layer of complexity, making them linger on the palate.
The 2023 vintage stands out as a remarkable year for both Les Clans and Garrus. This vintage represents a significant milestone in the history of Provence rosé, with all three Château d’Esclans wines achieving exceptional acclaim. Garrus is characterised by its remarkable clarity and brightness, showcasing a refined structure and subtle notes of oak and almond. The wine’s elegance and composure are reminiscent of some of the finest Burgundian whites. But “its tyring to be its own individual style, it might resemble white burgundy but has a style of its own, it tastes well”. Les Clans from 2023 is celebrated for its harmonious balance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for pairing with a wide range of dishes.
Whilst I thoroughly enjoyed all of them the 2020 vintage stood out as my favourite. They have proven to be exceptional, demonstrating the potential for aging and the depth of flavour that can be achieved with meticulous winemaking. These wines are not only a delight to drink now but also promise to continue evolving beautifully in the years to come.
Their ability to age gracefully is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative techniques employed in their production. These wines evolve beautifully over time, developing deeper flavours and greater complexity, making them ideal for aging. “We’re not trying to change the world, what we’re trying to offer is that rose can be a fine wine if one wants it to be”.
A race against oxidation
Sacha’s dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of the production process. From handpicking the grapes to experimenting with different barrels and woods, every detail is carefully considered. Harvesting is completed by lunchtime, using crates with dry ice and pellets to maintain the coolness of the grapes, preserving the fruit and flavour until the last moment. With the help of a group of engineers from Bordeaux, his team has developed a state-of-the-art technology, including nitrogen gas to reduce oxidation and a glycol system with tentacles that chill inside the barrels. This innovation allows for controlled fermentation at different temperatures, making these wines possible today. “You wouldn’t be able to make rosé like this if it wasn’t for the technology.” Garrus, comprising 90% free-run juice the wine is vinified in the whitest 600-litre barrels you will come across, new oak (20%), second-year oak (40%), and third-year oak (40%). Renewing the barrels every three years undergoing bâtonnage twice weekly over an eleven-month period gives the wines a lovely blanched almond flavour, whilst building structure and depth.
The risk paid off
The 2025 vintage, set to be released in 2026, will mark the Chateau’s 20th vintage. The investment in Provence has grown reflecting the commitment to quality. The category is improving, and as it does, interest grows.
The risk taken has paid off, with the wines now available in 110 countries. 50% of sales are in the US and 25% in the UK, with the rest of the world accounting for the final 25%. Sacha hails the UK as being crucial for the fine wine market, and without it, there would be no such market.
Conclusion
Sacha Lichine’s dedication to innovation and quality has brought Provence rosé to the global map. His wines, from Whispering Angel to Garrus, showcase the potential of rosé as a fine wine, driven by a vision of elegance and refinement.
Les Clans and Garrus are more than just rosé wines; they are masterpieces that showcase the potential of rosé as fine wine. Their age-worthiness and compatibility with food, combined with Sacha Lichine’s expertise and commitment to quality, make them truly exceptional. These wines are a testament to the fact that with the right knowledge and investment, rosé can achieve the same level of sophistication and elegance as the finest wines in the world.
Tasting the best of Château d’Esclans: five vintages of Garrus and Les Clans
April 9, 2025
By David Kermode
Château d’Esclans’ Sacha Lichine set the wine world alright with Whespering Angel but he’s still out to prove that rosé can be a serious, age-worthy style. David Kermode explores the story behind arguably the world’s most famous rosé producer and gives his verdict on vertical tastings of the estate’s top two wines, Garrus and Les Clans.
Two mini vertical showcasing the ageability of Château d’Esclans premium rosé
Garrus, Château d’Esclans, seriez-vous prêt à payer cher pour un rosé qui goûte comme un grand bourgogne ?
Il faut bien reconnaître que ce style est largement entaché par une indigence de goût généralisée, qui de surcroît, tend à se niveler dans un moule technologique, donnant à tous les rosés un fâcheux air de famille…
Mais de là à conclure que l’ensemble des rosés ne méritent pas d’attention, ce serait aller un peu vite en besogne. Si une grande majorité d’entre eux répondent aux besoins d’une consommation futile, désaltérante, mondaine, et n’incline guère à y consacrer du budget, il ne s’agit pas pour autant de renier une quelconque légitimité à ceux qui sont bien nés et se distinguent de la masse insipide vendue en grande distribution.
L’exemple de la cuvée Garrus du Château d’EsclanS, contredit avec flamboyance cette vision du vin rosé réduit à un vin de terrasse, bu dans la « convivialité et le partage », les deux maitres-mots de la démagogie soifarde, psalmodiés à l’envi par le marketing de des grands vinassiers.
Outre l’improbable niveau d’excellence que cette cuvée a su atteindre en une décennie, Garrus démontre que les règles de vinification qui président à l’élaboration de ce style de vin, peuvent être transgressées, à dessein de porter au plus haut niveau d’esthétisme, un vin couramment galvaudé par une approche de grands volumes.
Un grand rosé aux gènes Bordelais
Le corollaire de son niveau hors du commun est malheureusement son prix d’achat astronomique qui le consacre comme le rosé le plus cher du monde à près de 100 euros la bouteille.
Mais après tout, telle était l’ambition portée dès les origines, par son fondateur Sacha Lichine, lorsqu’il choisit de s’établir au début des années 2000, dans la haute vallée d’Esclan, en reprenant une ancienne exploitation.
Pour mener à bien cette aventure provençale, il n’hésite pas à vendre en 1999, le prestigieux héritage de son père Alexis Lichine, le 4ème grand cru classé de Margaux, le château Prieuré Lichine.
Château d’Esclans est également vinifié par un éminent œnologue bordelais, Patrick Léon, ancien maître de chai chez Mouton Rothschild. Mais si ce sont des Bordelais qui président aux destinées de l’un des plus grands rosés du monde, c’est bien la philosophie bourguignonne qui imprègne l’excellence des cuvées porte-drapeau : Garrus et Les Clans.
Vinification et élevage à la Bourguignonne
Le parti pris de l’école bourguignonne façonne en effet la personnalité de ce rosé très haut de gamme.
Profondément enracinées dans les calcaires de la haute vallée d’Esclans, les vieilles vignes de grenache et de rolle livrent un jus concentré d’arômes.
Après avoir été vendangé au petit matin, le raisin est convoyé avec célérité dans des petites cagettes à la cuverie pour éviter toute oxydation intempestive, susceptible d’altérer la pureté et la fraicheur de leurs arômes.
Après un pressurage éclair qui vise à obtenir une robe très pâle, le jus de goutte fermente dans des demi-muids de 600 litres (certains sont neufs d’autres de 2ème main), la taille des contenants évite un marquage trop puissant, mais lègue tout de même une légère empreinte toastée aux vins.
La cuvée Garrus se démarque par un élevage sur lies fines, scandé comme pour les grands bourgognes blancs, par un bâtonnage régulier, qui remet en suspension les lies et nourrit de la sorte le vin, durant toute sa période d’affinage.
Il en résulte un rosé doté d’une étoffe peu commune, quand la plupart de ses congénères rencontrent la chaine d’embouteillage directement après leur fermentation…
Sur le même chemin que l’Ermita d’Alvaro Palacio
Le fabuleux destin de Garrus, devenu une véritable icône sur le marché nord-américain, rappelle assez étrangement la fulgurante ascension de l’un des plus grands vins espagnols : l’Ermita d’Alvaro Palacio.
Ce priorat de haute volée avait réussi à détrôner l’Unico de Vega Sicilia en Ribera del Duero, dans le milieu années 90, en s’imposant comme le vin le plus cher d’Espagne.
C’était l’ambition originelle du jeune Alvaro, qui avait fixé d’emblée un prix plus cher que celui du Vega Sicilia. À ce jeu de la spéculation, ce sont les lois de l’offre et de la demande qui entérinent ou disqualifient l’Hybris de son géniteur, et dans le cas de l’Ermita comme celui de Garrus , le marché a validé.
Depuis lors, Garrus détient un véritable statut à part dans le monde du rosé, savamment entretenu par le puissant réseau international de revendeurs tissé par l’ancien propriétaire bordelais.
Un rosé d’exception au parfum de la spéculation
Noté 97/100, le millésime 2023, atteint une sorte d’empyrée auprès de la critique, d’autant que James Suckling et Jancis Robinson, se montrent à l’avenant sur leurs notes respectives.
Peu de rosés atteignent ce type de notes qui reflètent pour les blancs un très haut niveau de raffinement et d’harmonie. À 109 euros sur le site Vinatis , on n’en attendrait pas moins, mais il faut bien reconnaître à ce rosé, une sorte d’apanage à délivrer des qualités exceptionnelles de complexité et de précision que l’on retrouve habituellement dans les grands blancs.
Comme nous l’avons rappelé, ce succès doit beaucoup à la volonté de faire naître un rosé d’exception, qui tire parti des méthodes de vinification et d’élevage ayant fait leurs preuves auprès des grands bourgognes blancs.
Indéniablement, Garrus porte très haut les couleurs du rosé, bien qu’une partie de son prix découle de son image de vin de luxe en direction des classes très aisées.
Sacha Lichine a manifestement réussi son pari d’ériger son rosé en un vin de référence dont le prix d’achat ne saurait se confondre avec celui de ses concurrents. À l’amateur de vin de savoir s’il est prêt à payer cette part spéculative, pour s’offrir le plus grand rosé du monde, tout du moins celui désigné par l’habile marketing de Sacha Lichine.
Raphno Crédit photo : DR
Château d’Esclans: Would you pay for rosé that tastes like Burgundy?
By Joanna Simon
Joanna Simon tastes five vintages of two of the world’s most expensive rosés, Garrus and Les Clans, siblings of Whispering Angel, and asks the question: is it worth it?
Garrus is the top cuvée, alongside its sister Les Clans, of Sacha Lichine’s Provence estate Château d’Esclans. Credit: Château d’Esclans
In the early 2000s, the French were drinking more white wine than rosé.
By 2008, however, mainstream media were reporting that sales of rosé had overtaken those of white for the first time. Since then rosé has swept the wine world.
The production and consumption of rosé has been increasing worldwide.
And styles are inevitably changing. Rosé is serious business and a serious wine. There are now rosés that can be cellared and aged.
Sea change
If there’s one man who can take the credit for this sea change, it’s Sacha Lichine.
In 2006, he created Whispering Angel, a Côtes de provence rosé that he describes today as ‘closer to a spirits brand.’ as well as two oak-fermented rosés. Garrus and Les Clans, from his estate Château d’Esclans.
While he originally went on the property reecce in search of the sun, his vision became to create the world’s most expensive rosé, a wine of elegance and precision, complexity and ageability, that could hold its own among other fine wines – whites, reds and not least Burgundy.
The estate’s vineyards are in the limestone-rich soils of the upper Esclans valley in the Var department, wich he leased and then finally bought in 2005 after selling Château Prieuré-Lichine, in Margaux, in 1999.
Developing the style of a fine rosé
The technical director Lichine recruited to realise this vision was a Bordeaux winemaker, Patrick Léon, recently retired from Château Mouton Rothschild.
But the inspiration for the winemaking of Garrus and Les Clans was white Burgundy:fermentation and ageing in new oak with twice weekly batonnage.
There has been fine tuning over the years. Both fermentation and maturation are now in 600-litre demi-muids, instead of 500-litre barrels, and each is individually temperature controlled.
The wines are aged for 10 months and the oak is a mix of new, second and third use. Most of the barrels are from coopers Seguin Moreau, critically, they’re only very lightly toasted.
Other fundamentals include picking in the cool early morning, a three-stage grape sorting process, cooling the grapes down to 7°C-8°C, and a closed-circuit ultra-light pressing process that results in very pale, basically free-run juice (85%-90% in the case of Les Clans).
The average vine age is 50-70 years for Les Clans and ‘a little bit older’ for Garrus, according to Lichine.
Where they diverge radically from Burgundy is of course in their grape varieties: 78%-80% Grenache ‘for elegance’, says Lichine, and 18%-20% Rolle ‘for richness’.
There is a smidgen of Syrah and there could be a tad of Tibouren and Cinsault.
Making wine that sells
‘Everyone bought I was off my head to sell a fourth-growth Bordeaux to do this,’ says Lichine.
What they didn’t appreciate is that Sacha Lichine not only knows how to make wine and run an estate, he knows how to sell wine.
It may be the less romantic side of the wine business (although it can be glamorous at the upper echelons), but it was key to Esclans’ success and the subsequent global rise of rosé.
Has Lichine achieved what he set out to do? In my view, yes. The wines are rich and vinous yet elegan, and they become more complex with age.
Garrus, especially, starts out more like Burgundy, and become more like red Burgundy with age, wich surely can’t be bad.
Are they worth the money? Only you can decide what to spend your money on, but their quality compares with wines of equivalent price.
Notes and scores for five vintages of Garrus and Les Clans
