Tom Cannavan's Wine-Pages.Com
Wines of the Year 2024
By Tom Cannavan
I have published my Wines of the Year for 27 years. Choosing for 2024 was as challenging as ever, but I’ve managed to slot in one wine in each of ten categories. Among my choices are rare old Australian wines that come from dinners with generous friends in Melbourne that I will never forget.
As always, I invited visitors to wine-pages.com to send in their own nominations for publication on the site. The ‘Dud’ could be the worst or most disappointing wine, and ‘Thing’ can be used as imaginatively as you like. The definition of ‘budget’ in this exercise will vary for each person, so there’s no hard and fast rule.
Tom’s Wines of the Year 2024
Château d’Esclans, Garrus Rosé 2022
Provence, France, Dry Rosé, Cork, 14.5% abv
95 Points
From a single vineyard of 100-year-old vines, Garrus is fermented and aged in new French oak, but larger 600-litre barrels. There’s an intensity here, dried apricot and an earthy, dried fig nuance over both small red berries and a creamy almond and nut husk background. In the mouth there is immense concentration. It’s a rosé with real grip and purpose, and many layers of flavour and texture. Another convincing Garrus, with extract and phenolic that few achieve, but importantly, done with grace and elegance too.
So few French wines in my list this year. That reflects tasting opportunities, but also that I am keen to explore all sorts of wines and all sorts of regions. Some of my choices are from a holiday in Australia in January/February where meeting up with local wine lovers was an absolute highlight, and the generosity of them sharing truly historic vintages of fabled Australian wines was quite extraordinary.
There were also wonderful ‘offlines’ in London and Edinburgh when friends from this site’s community shared some fabulous bottles – including the extraordinary 1802 Madeira in the list above.
My dud is a ‘Vin de France’. I awarded it 85 points (“Average. A wine with no serious flaws, but no distinction”), so not an awful review, and while I feel bad about singling out one example and, indeed, one wine classification, it represents so many others: fantasy brands with no provenance that are 100% ‘product’; but zero percent soul. The
Vin de France classification allows wines to be blended from across French regions and some producers are using it as an opportunity to make really interesting wines, but others to concoct wines purely to fit some marketing profile. Vin de France is not alone of course: it’s a game that Australia and other countries without strict appellation rules invented. I’m just rather weary of these perfectly ‘pleasant’ but characterless wines.
My thing of the year: friends and family. As I get older I value the company and the good times shared with family and friends, old and new, more and more. I appreciate their loyalty and support. Thank you.
