Star Wine List has welcomed Château d’Esclans on board as a partner at this year’s Irish competition. The Provençal domain, best known for producing the smash hit ‘Whispering Angel,’ has brought rosé firmly into the luxury wine market. The team joined us in Waterford to award a Gold Star to the Best Short List in Ireland, for 2024.

Partner story with Château d’Esclans.

Potager restaurant, in Skerries, has been awarded a Gold Star for the Best Short List at this year’s Star Wine List of the Year Ireland competition. Owner Sarah Ryan and sommelier Maire McHugh were presented their award by Kelly Stevenson, Brand Ambassador for Château d’Esclans. And we caught up with Communications Director Tom Schreckinger to learn more about the Provence estate.

Thank you for joining the awards. What does the competition mean to you?

“We are very pleased to partner with Star Wine List for the first year and take this occasion to congratulate you for having created an exceptional website which ideally facilitates our partnership relative to connecting our wines with top restaurants and bars.”

What opportunities do you see for rosé wines in the top bars and restaurants?

“Today, rosé wines have conquered the aperitif moment, but we are confident in their ability to conquer, as well, the dining table. That said, rosé is extremely versatile when pairing a broad range of cuisine such as vegetables, seafood, meat or poultry.”

Winemaking in Provence

Today, a rosé from Provence is automatically associated with a certain pale, delicate and dry form of pink wine. Old notions of sweet, syrupy liquids have largely been eradicated in favour of something more luxurious, far more glamorous and much higher quality. And one very significant reason for this is winemaker Sacha Lichine, the self-styled architect of the modern “rosé renaissance” and founder of ‘Whispering Angel,’ which is made by Château d’Esclans.

Lichine acquired Château d’Esclans in 2006. Born into a winemaking family in Bordeaux, it is perhaps not surprising that he should end up in the same business, but it is the south of France where he has truly made his mark.

Located in the commune of La Motte, in the Var, the 560-hectare estate (240 hectares of which are planted to vines) sits to the west of Cannes and northeast of St-Tropez. Rosé literally comes with the territory here, typically from the Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes, often with a smattering of Rolle (Vermentino). Overlooking the Esclans Valley, the current château was built to resemble a Tuscan villa, in the 19th century, whilst the estate dates back to before the 12th. It is not just the setting that is picture perfect.

A modern phenomenon

You have likely come across ‘Whispering Angel’ already. It has made its way across the globe, from prestigious members’ clubs to rooftop bars by way of the hottest restaurants in the major cities. It is what, we understand, was on British singer Adele’s shopping list during COVID 19 lockdowns, with other celebrity fans including Lady Gaga, Victoria Beckham, Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie, and more.

Behind the appealing aesthetic is a wine designed to offer a taste of something special, with an approachable price tag.

“As winemaking begins with terroir, it is important to note that the vineyards of Château d’Esclans are situated on choice land in the highlands of Provence, where the soil is calcareous and rich in clay and limestone,” says Schreckinger. “This, combined with older vines growing from this land (some of which are close to a hundred years in age) gives them roots which penetrate deeply into earth and an opportunity to collect various layers of minerality which gets infused into the fruit and ultimately the wine.”

Rosés of refinement

The Château d’Esclans grapes are all carefully harvested out of the heat of the day (some exclusively overnight) to ensure purity and freshness in the fruit. They are loaded into small crates so as not to damage the skins unduly and sorted on reception at the winery by an optical eye camera, for the ultimate quality control. Temperatures are then also controlled throughout the winemaking process, which involves state-of-the-art cooling systems and closed-circuit pressing to avoid oxidation. All of this allows for plush, fruit-driven wines with the estate’s distinctively smooth edge and lightness of touch.

The range spans seven releases, falling into two categories. In the Whispering Angel line, in addition to its eponymous flag bearer, there’s the sustainably-minded ‘The Beach,’ bottled in lighter-weight glass with an ocean-friendly label, and the Mediterranean-style ‘The Pale’ made from grapes from across the Var region. By contrast, ‘Rock Angel’ benefits from some temperature-controlled oak influence during fermentation for a richer, more structured expression.

Even fuller bodied is ‘Les Clans,’ within the Estate Wines category, which the team likens to a broad white Burgundy thanks to its concentration, length and elegance. ‘Château d’Esclans’ is made with 100% estate-grown grapes – “the soul of the estate” – whilst the collection is crowned by ‘Garrus,’ a single-vineyard wine made from vines nearing 100 years in age, vinified entirely in new French oak demi-muids (first and second use; 600-litre), with bátonnage performed twice a week for eleven months, for added opulence in both flavour and texture.

Château d’Esclans at Star Wine List of the Year 2024

How would you define Château d’Esclans style of, and approach to, rosé?

“We have a two pronged approach towards wine making. In terms of ‘Whispering Angel,’ the number one Provence rosé in the world, the aim is to embody a classic Côtes-de-Provence style, making for a refreshing, delicious and minerally wine, compelling one to have a second glass.

“The Estate Wines are more into a full bodied and structured offering bearing greater length. These wines are gastronomic, likening them to an ultra-premium profile found in a white Burgundy rather than a classic Provence rosé.”

Are there any myths or misconceptions about rosé that you’re keen to dispel?

“One which is particularly common is that rosé is a sweet wine, which is not the case with these wines from Provence which offer a dry, minerally and aromatic profile while bearing a pale colour, making them widely appreciated by discerning consumers of fine wine.

“Another is that rosés can’t age, which is not the case as evidenced by our Estate Wines made from our old vines, using barrel fermentation/ageing (including bâtonnage), giving them the capability to age easily to four or five years and evolve beautifully. Towards this end, we recently opened and tasted ‘Garrus’ 2019, which was still perfectly fresh, bearing additional layers of complexity from having kept it to age.”

What are your top pairing suggestions for diners ordering a glass of a Château d’Esclans rosé in a restaurant?

“Rosé offers endless pairing possibilities. Suggestions include enjoying a sea bass carpaccio and our wine ‘Château d’Esclans,’ followed by a duck confit with ‘Les Clans’ and ending up with cheese and a glass of ‘Garrus.’

“Personally, a Christmas dinner comes to mind with roasted lobster and ‘Les Clans’ …a fabulous combination! Versatility in food pairing is at the essence to our wines and an important aspect to their unique proposition.”