How Rolle Became the Secret Grape of Provençal Rosés

This Mediterranean-grown white grape produces fresh, pale pink rosé wines.

By Kristy Alpert

There are some people who say you can never judge a rosé by its color, but you won’t find those people in the south of France. In Provence, specifically along the Côte d’Azur, where pale pinks are best paired with tanned bodies, the shade of the wine is everything. There’s a reason why bottles of lightly blushing rosé, known to French winemakers as a blanc taché (which translates to a stained white), continue to get nods of approval from winemakers, wine writers, and wine lovers. 

But the secret is less about the hue and more about a lesser-known grape that’s responsible for both the coveted color and memorable finish: Rolle.

The powerhouse grape with Mediterranean roots

Mainly grown in the south of France and Corsica, this white grape is generally at its most expressive when grown anywhere near the Mediterranean coastline. 

Rolle tends to ripen later than other varieties, which means the fruit keeps its freshness and delivers a bright punch of citrus, pear, and even grassy, almost herbal notes in the glass. 

Although some winemakers use Rolle as a standalone grape to make dry white wine, (in Italy, it’s known as Vermentino), many Provençal rosé winemakers like Château D’Esclans… consider ittheir secret weapon to blending an exquisite rosé. It’s often responsible for the round mouthfeel and subtly rich finesse you get from a truly balanced rosé.

“In age-worthy cuvées… Rolle as is allowed in the blend (and up to 20%) allowing for extended ripening, adding structure and character suitable for barrel-aging while maintaining elegance (and through co-fermentation) enhancing finesse and complexity, producing a bouquet of citrus, floral notes providing aromatics.

Chefs love Rolle for its gastronomic versatility, which is why many of the top rosés can pair so well with such a wide range of cuisines. Even non-pink-wine drinkers are easily converted to rosé when the grape is part of the wine’s blend.

If a crisp, elegant, and expressive rosé is what you’re after, take a note from France’s top winemakers and pay attention to the shade of your rosé, but most importantly, to the percentage of Rolle in the bottle.

Bottles to look for Whispering Angel, Château D’Esclans ($25)